Having already climbed Maximum together, today we set off to climb its neighbour. The grades are a little higher, with two variations of pitches 2 and 3 in 6b. L2 in 6a+ is a vertical yellow wall, where it's difficult to find holds. A good effort of resistance, which in my opinion would be worth 6b! A cable takes us back just above the colonnetes pitch on the right-hand route. L3 is either a beautiful 35m 6a+ on grey limestone, with a pretty slab step, or a steeper 6b slightly to the right. L4 is another difficult pitch for the grade, 2m above the belay, but super class! Exit onto well-cut verticals in the curved grey limestone to reach the foot of L6. The last part of this cliff is actually a wall in which several variants have been fitted. Abseil to the foot of these. None of the pitches is easy in itself, all are in compact grey rock where movement is compulsory.
In conclusion, this second route, "Eau et gaz à tous les étages" (Water and gas on all levels), is a superb route with a consistent level, sustained in the 6a/b range, which stands on its own but can also be a good second part of the day after a warm-up in "Le Maximum". In this case, you'll be on your way for 11 pitches and 6 abseils, which is starting to become a big, serious route!
NB: in summer, the sun starts to warm the foot of the cliff from 1pm, and the top a little later. So it's best to plan for the morning at this time of year, or reserve it for spring, autumn... or winter afternoons!
See you on the cliff!
Le Maximum - L1: 5c / L2: 5c / L3: 5c / L4: 5b / L5: 6a / L6: 6a+ - The Maximum
Water and gas on all floors - L1: 5c / L2: 6a+ or 6b / L3: 6a or 6b / L4: 5c / L5: as required in the wall