Traversée des arêtes de Rochefort - An aerial ridge run in the heart of Mont Blanc
The traversée des arêtes de Rochefort is one of the most aesthetically pleasing snow and mixed races in the Mont-Blanc massif. It takes place at high altitude, on a slender ridge suspended between France and Italy.
From the Torino hut, we set off early, at around 3am, to cross the Géant glacier and reach the "dining room" below the Dent du Géant (4001 m). The mixed approach (snow and rock) is already technical. From here, the route follows the line of a very narrow snow ridge, with a few passages on the north-western slopes when the line becomes too thin. The atmosphere is vertiginous and the commitment total: a mistake in cramponing is unforgivable.
After this tightrope walk, we reached the Aiguille de Rochefort (4001 m), after three short pitches of easy climbing. This was our summit for the day - but only halfway up. We return by the same route, with the same concentration, to the dining room.
The descent to the Glacier du Géant needs to be managed with vigilance: you need to anticipate rock falls triggered by the heat or roped parties on the Dent du Géant. Return to the Torino hut at the end of the morning.
A serious, demanding route for experienced mountaineers, it should be part of a high-altitude holiday where it can be preceded by classics in the area such as the Aiguilles d'Entrêves, the Tour Ronde ridge or even the Kuffner.
You need to be an experienced mountaineer, perfectly at ease cramponing on a tapered ridge, with sure footing and used to dealing with emptiness. Falling is not an option: the commitment is real from start to finish.
We climb the Aiguille de Rochefort, at an altitude of 4,001 m, by three short pitches of easy climbing. It's an iconic peak and a superb objective in its own right.
No. The full traverse of the ridges up to the Grandes Jorasses is a much more demanding undertaking, reserved for expert rope parties. We're doing the round trip to the Aiguille de Rochefort, which is already a serious undertaking.
The 3 a.m. start means you can reach the dining room at dawn, get back before the heat, and avoid falling rocks on the way down from the dining room. It's a fast-paced race, where keeping to the schedule is essential.
I recommend doing this route after one or two of the classics in the area, such as the Aiguilles d'Entrêves or the Freshfield ridge. It allows you to acclimatise, adjust your snow and mixed climbing techniques and get your bearings on the glacier.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
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