Crossing the Lyskamm (4532m) - One of the most beautiful snowy ridges at 4000 m
The traverse of the Lyskamm is a legendary ridge race in the Alps, just like the traverse of the Aiguille de Bionnassay or the Rochefort ridges. It unfurls its slender thread between 4200 and 4500 metres altitude, in the heart of the Mont Rose massif, between Italy and the Swiss Valais.
From the Gnifetti or Mantova refuge, we set off into the night - often around 3am - to reach the Col de Lys (4248m) via the glacier. The ridge starts out wide but quickly narrows, becoming an exposed line of hanging snow where falling is forbidden. This horizontal passage is the most challenging: despite the rope, it's the quality of the cramponing and the control of each climber that guarantee the safety of the party.
After reaching the east summit of the Lyskamm (4527 m), we continue our traverse on a mixed snow-rock ridge, before negotiating a steep descent in snow. The route then becomes more serene, until we reach the Quintino Sella hut (3585 m).
This is a serious race for experienced mountaineers, requiring excellent physical condition and prior acclimatisation. It's a real commitment, with everything taking place on exposed terrain at very high altitude.
This traverse of the Lyskamm can be integrated into a circuit of the 4000m peaks of Mont Rose, with a gradual approach via the Breithorn and Castor summits, in a logical and aesthetic sequence.
You need to be an experienced mountaineer, with excellent crampon technique on ridges, experience of high altitude and very good physical condition. Most of the traverse takes place above 4000m, in exposed terrain that requires constant vigilance.
Departure is around 3am from the Mantova or Gnifetti refuge. The ridges are reached at daybreak, which ensures the best snow conditions and avoids overheating. The route takes between 6 and 8 hours on average, depending on the conditions and your level.
The eastern peak of the Lyskamm, 4527m high. One of the giants of the Alps. The complete traverse takes you along the entire ridge as far as the Col Felik, before descending to the Quintino Sella refuge.
Yes, the traverse of the Lyskamm fits perfectly into a series of 4000m summits on Mont Rose. You start with the Breithorn and Castor, which allow you to acclimatise and prepare yourself technically before tackling the Lyskamm ridge.
The main commitment comes from the thinness of the ridge, which is sometimes pickled, and the exposure. A fall could be fatal. You also have to keep to the timetable to avoid finding yourself in unstable snow at the end of the morning, or caught in a thunderstorm. Acclimatisation is essential to avoid the effects of altitude.
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A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
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