Aiguille de la République (3305m), normal route.
Graded D, 650m of difficulty, 800m ascent.
Clearly visible from the Montenvers train station, or from the sea of ice, the Aiguille de la République attracts the attention of mountaineers who love granite and sharp points. The first attempt was made in 1902, and it was not until 1904 that the final pitch was climbed, using a crossbow to throw a rope over the summit block.
The route is complete and long, making it a truly beautiful mountain climb for experienced mountaineers. At the top of the Trélaporte glacier, two sometimes tricky rimayes need to be climbed to gain a foothold on the rock. This is followed by a succession of ledges and steps, dihedrals and cracks in 3-4 max. At the Tour Rouge, we leave the "Grépon Mer de Glace" route on our left and climb up a cirque to the right via easy switchbacks.
You are now at the foot of the aiguille, where the climbing begins. A dihedral takes you to the edge of the ridge, then to the foot of the summit boulder (a 4/4+ group). The last pitch has been equipped since 1904, so it's possible to shoot to the point to reach the summit! But the more adventurous can try their hand at this 6c+ slab...
The descent involves abseiling and descent climbing to get back on the glacier, then returning to the Envers des Aiguilles hut. Allow another 3 hours or so to reach Montenvers. A long day!
The classic solution is to spend the night in the Envers des Aiguilles refuge. But there's also the Tour Rouge hut, a comfortable bivouac perched in the middle of the wall. Sleeping up there is a more immersive and wild experience, with the sun rising over the Mer de Glace.
It takes at least two days. Traditionally, you go up to the hut or bivouac the night before, then set off early in the morning to climb the 650 m of wall, come back down to the hut, then join the Montenvers. To catch the last train, you need to be efficient. A more comfortable option is to spend a second night in the refuge, and finish off with a short climb the next day. Another original option is to attack the route on the first day, then sleep in the Tour Rouge bivouac on the way down: it's a long day, but you avoid waking up at night and climb during the day.
From the refuge de l'Envers, you can combine the ascent of the Aiguille de la République with a short long route on the surrounding walls. For an ambitious and logical sequence, you can also continue with the traverse of the Grépon - Mer de Glace. The Tour Rouge bivouac allows you to complete this combo in style.
Not particularly. Bear in mind that the first ascent dates back to 1904: the climbers of the time were looking for the easiest route. Up to the foot of the aiguille, the terrain remains "easy", with a tight rope or short rope and a few small jumps to negotiate. The summit section is more challenging, so it's time to put on your climbing shoes for a smooth, comfortable climb.
The best season is from July to the end of August, when the rimaye is passable and the rock is dry. At the beginning or end of the season, conditions can change rapidly, making access more difficult. A window of stable weather is essential if you are to enjoy the climb to the full.
This route is aimed at mountaineers who are already at ease on ridges and in fast rope climbing. You'll need to be able to follow the route effectively on route 3, climb without any particular difficulty on route 4, and be trained in abseiling. The length and commitment also require good stamina and efficient handling.
Before setting your sights on the Aiguille de la République, it's worth training on some of the other great classics of the Mont Blanc massif. The Dent du Géant, the normal route of the Peigne and the south ridge of the Aiguille du Moine are excellent preparatory climbs. They allow you to work on fluidity, efficiency in the manoeuvres and timetable management.
The ascent of the Aiguille de la République opens the way to other prestigious routes in the massif. Among them, the Aiguilles du Diable traverse, the Aiguilles de Chamonix traverse and the Drus traverse are among the great rocky ridge routes that naturally extend this type of progression.
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