The Mont Blanc massif is a unique playground for granite rock climbing. Its perfect cracks, sculpted slabs and aerial ridges attract climbers from all over the world. With a mountain guide, you can explore these walls in complete safety, discovering the classics and progressing on mythical lines.
The Mont Blanc massif is home to :
Historic routes Alpine climbs: often more accessible but still emblematic, they provide an introduction to Chamonix granite and alpine climbing. Grades 3/4 and possibly a pitch of 5.
More climbing routes This route requires more technique, stamina and experience to climb cracks and slabs. Rating 5/6.
Technical and difficult routes Long, challenging routes, often with little equipment, where the descent, approach and safety in the high mountains are decisive factors. Rating 6/7 and above.
Over and above the grading, it is the quality of the equipment, whether in place or not, the length of the route, the way it is climbed and the approach that define the size and commitment of the climb, and therefore its overall difficulty.
Here's a selection of the routes you can check out on the site, grouped by level, with all the imperfections that classification can entail. I'd still be delighted to take you on any routes that aren't listed, it's just that I haven't been able to fill them in yet!
Historical routes :
Aiguille de la République normal route
Aiguille du Peigne normal route
More climbing paths :
Aiguille du Moine, South ridge
Aiguille du Peigne, Papillons ridge
Technical and difficult routes :
Congo Star, Aiguille Pierre Allain
Voie des Suisses, Grand Capucin
Rébuffat route, Aiguille du Midi
This list is by no means complete, but it already offers a playground capable of occupying a mountaineer's life on granite!
Climbing on granite in the Mont Blanc massif requires a good knowledge of mountaineering and high mountain safety. With a guide, you'll benefit from local expertise to help you choose routes suited to your level, optimise your approach and descent, and make the most of the most beautiful major routes in the massif. Whether you're looking for historic routes, more technical routes or challenging ridges, a guide will ensure your safety and give you precise advice.
There are historic, emblematic and accessible routes, more challenging routes to improve your technique and endurance, and technical and difficult, long and challenging routes, where the equipment, the approach and the descent play a key role in the overall difficulty. Choosing a guide allows you to understand the specifics of each route and its level of commitment.
The main sectors include Aiguille du Midi, Combe du Maudit, Refuge du Requin, Envers des Aiguilles, Plan de l'Aiguille, Leschaux, Couvercle, Charpoua, Aiguilles Rouges, the Trient sector, Argentière and the Italian slopes such as Val Ferret and Val Veny. Each sector offers a variety of major routes and granite ridges, from beginner routes to very challenging climbs.
The optimum period is generally from June to September, depending on altitude and exposure. Some routes may be accessible earlier or later in the season, depending on weather and altitude conditions.
Over and above the grading, the level of commitment depends on the length of the route, the level of equipment (bolts, pitons, belays), the method of descent, the approach and the mountain conditions. A short but poorly equipped route can be more demanding than a longer but well-protected route. A guide will help you assess these parameters and ensure that your progress is safe.
For historic or less technical routes, an experienced climber can progress with a guide. For more challenging, technical or very long routes, previous experience of alpine and granite climbing is recommended. The guide will assess your level and adapt the choice of routes.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
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