Ascent of the Matterhorn via the normal Italian route
The Matterhorn by the Lion's Ridge is the normal Italian route to reach the summit of the Matterhorn, at an altitude of 4,478 metres. Starting from Cervinia, this route is the cousin route of the’Hörnli ridge, the Swiss route that starts from Zermatt.
The two routes lead to the same summit, but offer noticeably different ascents. While the Hörnli ridge largely traverses the face, the Italian route follows the crest of the ridge more directly. The ascent is thus slightly more technical and exposed, without being fundamentally more difficult.
The Lion's Ridge is also the historic route of the Italian pioneers who were the first to attempt to reach the summit of the Matterhorn. They were ultimately beaten to it by the Swiss expedition, which succeeded in the first ascent of the summit via the Hörnli Ridge in 1865. The first Italian ascent was achieved a few days later.
Today, the Matterhorn via the Lion's Ridge offers a very beautiful ascent, generally less frequented than its Swiss counterpart. The route alternates between rocky passages, snow sections and mixed terrain depending on the conditions and the time of season.
Climbing the Matterhorn via this route is a complete ascent, physically and technically demanding, on one of the most iconic summits in the Alps. With its 4478 metres and its instantly recognisable silhouette, the Matterhorn is a unique summit in a mountaineer's life.
Route description of the Matterhorn ascent via the Lion's Ridge
Day 1: Ascent to the Carrel refuge
The first day begins in Cervinia. From the arrival of the ski lifts, the route passes by the Orionde hut before continuing to the Carrel hut.
It is necessary to account for approximately 1300 metres of ascent to reach the Carrel refuge. This unguarded refuge is the starting point for the climb. It is therefore necessary to bring your own food for the night.
Day 2: Ascent of the Matterhorn and return
Departure is usually around 4 AM.
From the Carrel Hut, it takes approximately 2.5 to 3.5 hours to reach the summit of the Matterhorn, depending on conditions and pace. The route is predominantly rocky, with mixed terrain at the beginning of the season.
After reaching the summit at 4478 metres, you should allow an equivalent amount of time to descend back to the Carrel hut.
The day is then far from over: there is still the descent to Orionde, which represents about 2 to 3 hours of walking, before reaching the ski lifts and descending towards Cervinia.
For a climbing party with the necessary skill and physical condition to ascend the Matterhorn, the objective is normally to complete the ascent in two days. However, in case of fatigue, specific conditions or a delay during the day, it is possible to sleep at the Orionde mountain hut on the return from the Carrel mountain hut and reach Cervinia the following day. The ascent can then be completed in three days.
The Lion's Ridge is the normal Italian route up the Matterhorn. It allows one to reach the summit at 4478 metres from Cervinia, notably passing by the Carrel Hut. It is the historic route used by Italian mountaineers during their first attempts to climb the Matterhorn.
Both routes allow you to reach the summit of the Matterhorn, but they offer different ascents. The Hörnli ridge starts from Zermatt, on the Swiss side, while the Lion ridge starts from Cervinia, on the Italian side.
The Italian route runs more along the ridge itself and offers slightly more climbing. The Hörnli ridge, on the other hand, is more of a face route. Both routes present a comparable level of difficulty, with different technical characteristics.
The ascent of the Matterhorn via the Lion's Ridge is normally carried out over two days. The first day is dedicated to climbing up to the Carrel Hut, with approximately 1300 metres of ascent from the arrival of the ski lifts.
On the second day, you should allow approximately 2.5 to 3.5 hours to reach the summit from the refuge, and then a similar amount of time to descend. You will then need to factor in another 2 to 3 hours of walking to reach Oriondé and the ski lifts.
In the event of fatigue or a delay, it is possible to sleep at the Orionde refuge on the way back and reach Cervinia the following day. The ascent can then be completed over three days.
The Matterhorn via the Lion's Ridge is a demanding alpine ascent that requires sound high-mountain experience and genuine confidence on rocky sections and alpine terrain.
Good physical preparation and suitable acclimatisation are essential. The necessary experience also depends on the conditions encountered on the mountain.
The necessary equipment depends on the conditions. The ascent may include sections of snow and mixed terrain requiring the use of crampons and an ice axe, particularly early in the season. Later in the season, the route may be mostly over dry ground.
Full mountaineering equipment is required.
The first night is spent at the Carrel hut, an un-guarded refuge located on the Lion Ridge route. It is therefore necessary to bring your own food.
If returning late or feeling tired, an extra night can be considered at the Orionde refuge before descending to Cervinia the next day.
The ideal period is rather from July to September. Depending on the time of the season, the Lion's Ridge can present passages of snow, mixed terrain, or be traversed mainly on dry ground.
The decision to leave therefore always depends on the real conditions encountered on the mountain.
The Matterhorn via the Lion's Ridge is a historic, aesthetically pleasing, and complete ascent. Generally less frequented than the Swiss normal route, it offers a progression more focused on the crest of the ridge and provides a different experience from the ascent via the Hörnli.
With its summit at 4478 metres and its iconic silhouette, the Matterhorn is one of the great peaks of the Alps and an unmissable climb in an mountaineer's life.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
