4000 Mont Rose: The great crossing
The Grande Traversée des 4000 du Mont Rose is a great glacier route that we're doing as an itinerary between Italy and Switzerland.
We'll spend several days climbing at altitudes of between 3500 and 4500 metres, taking in the range's iconic peaks: Breithorn, Pollux, Castor, Zumsteinspitze, Parrotspitze, Ludwigshöhe... depending on the conditions and the group's wishes.
We're on a glacier, with a few easy rock sections. The altitude and pace require a good level of fitness, but the terrain is generally not very technical. The route lends itself well to a gradual apprenticeship in mountaineering at altitude.
There are two possible formats:
- A 4-day crossing from Cervinia to Stafal, returning by taxi (shown here on the map)
- A 5-day loop starting from Zermatt, which includes an ascent of the Dufourspitze (this version is preferable on skis, and when the glacier is well covered in snow).
In both cases, we adapt the itinerary each day according to the weather, mountain conditions and the energy of the group. If necessary, we can reach a valley by ski lift or road transfer.
Departure from Cervinia.
We take the cable car up to the Klein Matterhorn (3883 m).
Ascent of the West Breithorn (4164 m), our first 4000m peak.
Descent via the Verra glacier to the Guide d'Ayas refuge.
Departure from Cervinia.
We take the cable car up to the Klein Matterhorn (3883 m).
Ascent of the West Breithorn (4164 m), our first 4000m peak.
Descent via the Verra glacier to the Guide d'Ayas refuge.
From the Ayas guide hut, we climb Pollux (4092 m), then continue to Castor (4228 m), which we cross, and descend to the Quintino Sella hut.
Overnight at the Quintino Sella refuge.
Departing from the refuge, we cross a large glacial plateau that passes beneath the ridges of Lysjamm. If you're on your own, we can do the traverse. If you're two or more, you can traverse the Naso del Lyskamm. We then climb Ludwigshöhe (4344m), Corno Nero (4322m) and Pyramide Vincent (4215m) on our way down.
Overnight at the Mantova or Gnifetti refuge
Last day. We leave the refuge by headlamp, following the tracks we made the day before up to the Col de Lys. We set foot on the high glacier plateau, dominated by the Zummsteinsptize (4562m) and Punta Gnifetti (4554m) peaks.
Descend by the same route, passing the refuge and returning to the valley by ski lift.
At Stafal, we take a taxi back to Cervinia to collect our car.
Zermatt loop > Mont Rose > Zermatt
Day 1
We take the cable car up to the Klein Matterhorn from Zermatt
Ascent of Breithorn, then descent to the Guide d'Ayas hut
Days 2 to 4
Identical to the 4-day programme: Pollux, Castor, Naso, then crossing the glacial plateau to reach the Monte Rosa Hütte refuge.
Day 5
Ascent of the Dufourspitze (4634m), the massif's highest peak, and a long return to Zermatt via the Gornergletscher.
- 40L rucksack with ice axe attachment
- Rigid mountain boots
- Crampons to match your boots (available on loan)
- Straight ice axe (available on loan)
- Harness (available on loan)
- Mountaineering helmet (available on loan)
- Gaiters if your trousers require them
- Telescopic poles recommended
- A water-repellent windproof jacket (Gore-Tex type)
- Two thermal layers (fleece, down jacket)
- Mountaineering trousers (water-repellent and lined)
- Gaiters
- A pair of lightweight gloves
- A pair of warm gloves or mittens
- Over-gloves if necessary
- Bonnet, buff
- Charged headlamp
- A pair of category 4 glasses
- A ski mask in case of bad weather
- High protection sun cream
- Personal pharmacy (compeeds, plasters, dolipranes and/or aspirin, smecta...)
- A minimum 1L water bottle and/or thermos flask
- Food (seeds, cereal bars, picnics)
- Lighter clothing for overnight stays in refuge (tights, t-shirt)
- Silk sheet
- Minimalist toiletry bag
You don't need to be an expert, but you do need to have some experience of the high mountains: cramponing, roped walking, managing effort at altitude. We'll have a chat beforehand to make sure everyone is in the right place.
The possible periods are from mid-June to the end of July, when the glaciers are still well covered and the days are long.
We build the itinerary with possible escapes each day. Thanks to the ski lifts or transfers, we can reach a valley and adapt the rest of the route. This is a real asset of the Grande Traversée des 4000 du Mont Rose.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.