Savoyard route, Dibona needle (3130m)
The route climbs 300m up the Dibona, a granite jewel in the heart of the Oisans region. Although the pioneering climbers had already worked hard on this slender needle (Madier et Fourastier opened the "Madier route" in 1937!), it was two Savoyard climbers, Pierre Chapoutot and Bernard Wyns, who completed this magnificent route 30 years later. Even today, it's a benchmark for rock climbing in the Massif!
Departing from the Les Étages car park, the first day is spent on the route up to the Soleiller refuge, with an uninterrupted view of the next day's ascent. In the middle of the climb, we can try our first big route, or climb in the afternoon near the refuge.
On the second day, after a short walk, we set off on the ascent, first on the south face and then on the west face of the aiguille. The route is not too strenuous, varied in style and no more than 6a. Less well equipped than its cousin "Obligatory visit", it wraps around the aiguille and finally leads to its summit.
Descent via the north ridge, the normal route, then back to the refuge.
The Savoyards route on the Aiguille Dibona is ideal for climbers who are comfortable in 5c/6a as a second, with a good alpine footing. You don't need to be a lead climber, but you do need to be able to do the manoeuvres on your own, be quick and know how to move in mountain terrain. This is not an initiation: it's a great route for those who want to experience a truly great alpine route.
Yes, absolutely. The refuge du Soreiller is a perfect base camp for linking several major routes over two or three days. You can imagine a progression or simply vary the pleasures. I can offer you a programme adapted to your level, your desire and your current form.
The descent is via the normal route of the Aiguille Dibona, an easy ridge (max grade II/III) that can be climbed by de-escalation or abseiling. It's a great way to finish the route, with a final, more alpine section.
The climb to the Soreiller refuge takes around 2h30 hours. On the first day, you can climb a short route on the way up, or some pitches in the rind near the hut in the afternoon. This is a good way to get to know the rock and enjoy yourself before the big route the next day.
The ideal period is from early July to late September, or even October if the autumn is dry. The granite heats up quickly in the morning, and the orientation of the route means you can climb comfortably from 9am. In June, there may still be snow on the ascent to the refuge and on the descent of the normal route. This does not make the route impossible, but it does mean that you need to bring your mountaineering equipment.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
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