Aiguille du Moine, south ridge.
A rocky ridge race in the heart of the Mont Blanc massif
The Aiguille du Moine, at 3412 metres, is one of the most beautiful viewpoints in the Mont-Blanc massif. Rising above the Couvercle refuge, it offers a variety of climbs in a wild setting, with uninterrupted views of all the peaks in the Mer de Glace: Grandes Jorasses, Bassin de Talèfre, Aiguille Verte and Drus, Aiguilles de Chamonix, Mont Blanc, Dent du Géant... you name it!
On the first day, we climb up the Mer de Glace from Montenvers, then the ladders to reach the Couvercle path. After a 4-hour approach, we settle into the refuge. After a picnic on the terrace or an omelette, we set off to climb a few pitches on the rock faces above the refuge, in preparation for the next day's race.
On the day of the climb, we woke up more or less early depending on the next stage of the programme: full south ridge, classic, return to the valley during the day... We climbed the névé at the foot of the normal route with crampons, leaving the glacier equipment at the foot of the route. We quickly veer left to join the south ridge, at the point where it becomes steeper. The route is clever, sometimes aerial, sometimes fun: an initial chimney passage (5) is a good warm-up before the key pitch (5c, Chamonix style, crack with wedges). The rest of the climb is more relaxed, with rocky 4-clips, ledges and an easy ridge. A final climb over a large cracked boulder (5) leads to the final ridge and the summit.
The descent is via the normal route, with descents, abseils, ledges and a small path. It takes around 2 hours to return to the refuge. A second night in the refuge allows you to savour the atmosphere of the place, or even to continue with another ascent (Traversée de la Nonne or the big route above the refuge).
Yes, it's not a beginner's route. You already need to be at ease on rocky terrain, have experience on ridges and be able to follow 5c climbs effectively as a second.
Two pitches are worth noting: a chimney in 5, then a sustained crack in 5c (Chamonix style) which is easy to climb for the second pitch but remains physical, even when pulling on the rope. The rest is easier, but you need to be able to keep up the pace on the sometimes airy ridge.
From the end of June to the end of September, it is essential that the rock is dry. The rimaye in the névé can be less comfortable at the end of the season.
Yes, it's common to do a long route as a complement, or to combine it with the Nonne-Evêque traverse, or to do it in preparation for the Drus traverse! A multitude of routes can be done from Le Couvercle, making it the ideal place for an extended stay in the high mountains.
From Montenvers, you climb up the Mer de Glace and then the ladders to reach the balcony path. Approximately a 4-hour walk with a 1000 m ascent.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
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