Arête des Papillons, aiguille du Peigne (3192m) - Classic ridge race in Chamonix
The Arête des Papillons is a classic for climbing and mountaineering enthusiasts in the Mont Blanc massif. This route on compact granite is very aesthetic and varied, allowing you to climb on alpine terrain while enjoying spectacular views of the Chamonix valley and surrounding peaks. Although it ends at the Gendarme at 3009m, with a good pace we can reach the summit of the Peigne at 3192m, for an even more complete experience!
We meet early in the morning in Chamonix, from where we take the Plan de l'Aiguille skip. From there, a short approach walk takes us to the foot of the Peigne. From the start of the route, we climb directly along the edge of the ridge, with sections of solid rock climbing typical of Chamonix granite.
The key passage is at the halfway point, where a 6a passage awaits the most experienced climbers. It is possible to bypass this difficulty by pulling on a point, but for those who wish to do so, this is an ideal moment to test yourself. After this crux, the route continues in a similar style with pleasant climbing steps, until it reaches the Gendarme 3009m. If the conditions are right, we can push on to the summit of the Peigne, offering a few more fine climbing pitches to round off this magnificent ascent.
The descent is via the classic route, then we return to the benne to return to Chamonix after a successful day's mountaineering.
Technical description: 450m, D, 6a>4c
This route is ideal for climbers and mountaineers who are comfortable climbing and want to discover the ridges of the Mont-Blanc massif. It is important to have some previous experience of ridge climbing.
The general grading is AD (Assez Difficile), with a key passage in 6a. The route is mainly rock climbing on compact granite, with a few aerial passages.
The route takes around 5 to 6 hours, depending on your pace. This includes the ascent, breaks and progression along the ridge, with the possibility of reaching the summit of Peigne.
There is no way around the passage, but it can be crossed by pulling on a protection point. This allows those who are not comfortable with this difficulty to continue without major difficulty.
No, I provide all the technical equipment you need (ropes, harness, helmet, ice axe, etc.). All you need to bring is suitable clothing, climbing shoes, water and a small rucksack for the day.
Yes, in the event of bad weather (thunderstorms, bad weather, etc.) or if conditions are not optimal. An alternative solution will be proposed, such as a postponement or another more accessible ridge route.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
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