Aiguille Verte via the Whymper couloir - a major mountaineering route in the Mont Blanc massif
Climbing the Aiguille Verte (4122 m) via the Whymper couloir is a milestone in any mountaineer's career. This historic route (first climbed in 1865 by Edward Whymper) requires excellent physical fitness and solid experience of steep snow couloirs.
"Before La Verte you were a mountaineer, after La Verte you become a mountaineer".
The Whymper couloir (approx. 600 m ascent, gradient 50-55°) faces south-west: it gets the sun early, which imposes a strict timetable. The aim is to reach the summit at daybreak.
The classic route starts from the Couvercle hut (2687m), which you leave in the middle of the night. After approaching the Talèfre glacier, we cross the Whymper rimaye (often open), then climb the couloir to the summit shoulder, before the final slopes leading to the summit (4122 m).
It's not a technically very difficult race, but it's long and involved. The key is to manage your schedule and your fitness. The descent is via the same route, or as a variant via the arête du Moine, if that was the aim, or if you're late...
At the start of the season (April-May), the best approach is on skis to the foot of the couloir (around 3400 m). Later in the season (late May to mid-June), the summit can be reached on foot from the bottom, if you are not a skier, or if the snow is no longer worth the effort... The return journey to Montenvers is then longer!
Take the Montenvers train or ski down the Vallée Blanche from the Aiguille du Midi to the Couvercle refuge.
It is also possible to include two days of preparation/acclimatisation in this programme, sleeping at the Requin hut, then doing the Brèche Puiseux, skiing the Mont Mallet glacier and then accessing the Couvercle hut.
To successfully climb the Aiguille Verte via the Whymper couloir, you need to be an experienced mountaineer, at ease in steep snow couloirs (50 to 55°), with two ice axes and crampons. The route requires a fast pace and excellent physical condition to keep up with the schedule.
Before attempting the Aiguille Verte via the Whymper, I recommend doing some steep snow runs in couloirs, to get used to the effort and time management in spring conditions. The north face of the Tour Ronde, one of the Tacul gullies and the Brèche Puiseux are good preparation.
The best time to climb the Aiguille Verte via the Whymper couloir is from April to mid-June. At the start of the season, the approach can be made on skis to the foot of the couloir. The advantage of this is that you can ski down to the bottom of the couloir, which means that the return journey is considerably shorter. Later in the season, the whole route can be climbed on foot, with a longer return journey to Montenvers.
The Whymper couloir is a great snow run, where choosing the right weather window, analysing the conditions and managing the timetable are essential. I'll work with you to optimise your chances of success and ensure your safety throughout your ascent of the Aiguille Verte.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
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A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
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