Arête Forbes au Chardonnet (3824m) - Aesthetic traverse in the heart of the Mont Blanc massif
The Forbes ridge at Le Chardonnet is a top-class mixed ridge race and an iconic route in the Mont Blanc massif. At the bottom of the Chamonix valley, the Chardonnet (3824 m) dominates the Argentière and Tour glaciers. Its slender silhouette, visible all the way to the Combe de Savoie, extends the line of Mont Blanc and the Aiguille Verte.
The ascent via the Forbes ridge begins from the Albert 1er hut (2702 m), with an early start (around 2.30 am). After a classic glacier approach via the glacier du Tour, we leave the tracks of the Aiguille du Tour to climb towards the Aiguille Forbes, which we skirt. This is where the race really begins, with a sustained climb under the seracs, sometimes tricky rimayes, and a steep slope to climb back up: "la bosse". Depending on the conditions, a short stretch of ice may be necessary.
We then join the Forbes ridge proper, often at daybreak. This line of granitic gendarmes offers varied progress alternating between snow and climbing. The few climbing pitches are never more than 3, the rest is easy scrambling, but at this altitude it's already having an effect! The snow conditions influence the difficulty. After about 400m of ridge crossing, we reach the summit of Le Chardonnet. But the climb isn't over yet, as we still have to make our way to the Épaule glacier via a path of rock and snow, before setting foot on the glacier. The glacier is crevassed and technical, with rimayes and wide crevasses to cross, until you reach the glacier du Tour.
A well-deserved break at the Albert 1er hut (omelette, pie, drink) concludes this serious mountaineering route, which should only be considered at the start of the season, from May to the end of June, when snow and glacier conditions are still good.
The Forbes ridge is a complete route, where you have to keep to the timetable and where the descent is just as important as the ascent. For good mountaineers who are comfortable with cramponing on ridges and have already done mixed PD+ to AD level routes. A good level of fitness, climbing experience and sure footedness are essential if you are to make effective progress on this route.
The main difficulties are in accessing the ridge (rimayes, seracs, steep slopes), then on the ridge itself, which can be more or less steep depending on the snow conditions. The rock is sound, but requires some ease. The descent from Le Chardonnet via the glacier de l'Épaule can be tricky.
The traverse of the Chardonnet via the Forbes ridge is best done at the start of the summer season, from May to the end of June, when the Epaule glacier is still well blocked and the access rimayes are passable, and when there is still snow on the ridge, but not too much to impede progress. Later, the route becomes too dangerous.
Yes, the Forbes au Chardonnet ridge is an excellent alternative to the Migot spur or the Escarra gully. It's also not the same type of route. These three routes are serious, technical and suitable for mountaineers who already have some mountain experience.
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