Ascent of the Matterhorn (4478m) - A legendary rock climb to over 4000m
Matterhorn ascent: The Matterhorn is without doubt one of the most iconic mountains in the Alps. Its Hörnli ridge, the normal route on the Swiss side, is a veritable high-altitude mountaineering race. It's a long, demanding climb, with no respite and little room for manoeuvre.
To increase your chances of success, I propose a progressive preparation in the Mont-Blanc massif, before heading to Cervinia or Zermatt to attempt the summit. The aim: to arrive acclimatised, efficient on ridge terrain and ready to keep to the timetable.
This course is aimed at people who have already practised mountaineering.
A first rocky ridge climb together. The normal route of the Peigne is a good route for climbing roped up in rocky terrain, assessing your ability and reviewing the rope work. A day trip from Chamonix.
A first rocky ridge climb together. The normal route of the Peigne is a good route for climbing roped up in rocky terrain, assessing your ability and reviewing the rope work. A day trip from Chamonix.
An ascent to a high altitude, on a climbing route and a beautiful prominent summit: the Dent du Géant.
Departure from the first Skyway skip, a good way to assess your physical condition! We climb over the Burgener plates to the top of the first 4000m.
A day to rest up, fine-tune your equipment, or adapt to get the best weather on the Matterhorn.
From Zermatt or Cervinia, climb up to the refuge. We take advantage of the afternoon to check out the next day's start. Final adjustments, short night, early wake-up.
Departure at night. It's a long climb, with an equally technical descent. You have to keep to the schedule, manage the altitude and stay clear-headed right to the end.
- Mountaineering boots, goggles, crampons, ice axe.
- 30L rucksack with ice axe attachment
- Harness, lanyard, belay device/descender, self-jamming device (supplied if necessary)
- A Gore-Tex jacket
- Two thermal layers (fleece, down jacket)
- Lightweight mountaineering trousers
- A pair of lightweight gloves
- A pair of warm gloves
- High protection sun cream
- UV4 Glasses
- A 1L water bottle
- Food (seeds, cereal bars, picnics)
- Lighter clothes for the night in the refuge (tights, t-shirt)
- Silk sheet
- Minimalist toiletry bag
- Personal pharmacy (compeeds, plasters, dolipranes and/or aspirin, smecta...)
Yes, you need to be able to move quickly and efficiently over rocky ridges, sometimes with a tight rope, and at altitudes of over 4,000 metres. This is not an introductory course.
We follow the normal route to the Matterhorn via the Hörnli ridge on the Swiss side. This is the most classic route, but it's still long and challenging.
Because here you'll find ridge routes that are perfect for training in conditions close to the Matterhorn. The Arête des Papillons and the Dent du Géant are ideal for acclimatising and training.
Yes. Depending on the weather and your location, there are alternatives:
Allow around 8 to 10 hours round trip from the refuge. The timetable is strict, and if you don't keep to it... you'll have to come back down!
Because racing requires quick decisions and fine-tuned management of pace, safety, weather and technical aspects. My role is to prepare you, support you and enable you to progress in the best possible conditions.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.