Autonomous mountaineering course - Level 1: Securing the roped party
This course is aimed at those of you who want to become more autonomous in mountaineering and better master mountain safety techniques. Together, in the field, we'll go over the basics of alpine progression, taking the time to understand, learn and then repeat the right moves until they become fluid.
The aim of the course is to ensure the safety of the rope party, to adapt our behaviour and roping to the terrain, to make well-considered decisions and to be able to tackle our next routes with pleasure and serenity.
Here's what we'll be looking at together during this autonomous mountaineering course.
Fundamentals of mountaineering and progression techniques :
Rescue and assistance manoeuvres :
Race preparation :
The course lasts a minimum of 2 days, ideally 5 days. Each year I propose dates on which you can register as a group, but I can also adapt to a tailor-made request.
- 40L rucksack with ice axe attachment
- Rigid mountain boots
- Steel crampons to fit your shoes
- Straight ice axe
- Mountaineering helmet
- Harness, lanyard, descender, 4 screwgate karabiners, machard, mechanical self-locking device (ti-block), lunulle hook, 3-4 120cm slings, micro-traction pulley, 2 pins, a few friends and stoppers, a few quickdraws, single and double ropes, 6mm rope.
We'll take stock together of what you've got, and I can help you fill in the gaps.
- A water-repellent windproof jacket (Gore-Tex type)
- Two thermal layers (fleece, down jacket)
- Mountaineering trousers (water-repellent and lined)
- A pair of lightweight gloves
- A pair of warm gloves or mittens
- Cap, bonnet, buff
- Headlamp
- Watch, altimeter, compass, map or mapping app
- A pair of category 4 glasses
- High protection sun cream
- A 1L water bottle
- Food (seeds, cereal bars, picnics)
- Lighter clothing for overnight stays in refuge (tights, t-shirt)
- Silk sheet
- Minimalist toiletry bag
- Personal pharmacy (compeeds, plasters, dolipranes and/or aspirin, smecta...)
This course is designed for those who have already completed a few mountain routes (glacier trekking, easy routes, introduction to mountaineering) and who now want to understand and master the technical basics so that they can move forward with greater confidence, either as an independent roped party or as a co-leader.
Not yet. But you'll leave with a complete toolbox, a clearer view of your level, and the ability to lead routes from F to PD+, or to be a reliable partner on more technical routes. Autonomy is acquired in stages, and this course is a key step in that process.
The course lasts from 2 to 5 days, depending on the option chosen. We work in a mountain range suited to the season and the group's objectives: Vanoise, Écrins, Mont-Blanc, Oisans. The sites are chosen to alternate between glacial terrain, rock and snow, with accessible refuges and areas suitable for teaching.
Each day is a mixture of targeted technical exercises, real-life situations and feedback sessions. For example:
A morning dedicated to glacier roping and reeving
An afternoon on building relays and fitting protection
A day of practice racing with navigation, decision-making and time management
A pedagogical approach that is progressive and always adapted to the group.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.