Autonomous mountaineering course - Level 2: Guiding a rope party
Once you've mastered the basic techniques and acquired the safety reflexes, it's time to go further. This course is for those of you who are already on your own and now want to take the lead. The emphasis is on complete preparation for the race, adaptation to real mountain conditions, and techniques for progressing roped up in mountain terrain, on more complex routes.
On the first day, we go over the basic manoeuvres to make sure they have been mastered, before a first short race to validate them on the ground. For the rest of the course, the application routes are longer and more technical than in a level 1 course. We climb in autonomous roped parties and, depending on your level of climbing, we include some major routes in the mountains, ideal terrain to test your ability to manage a complete itinerary.
Objectives of the course :
Technical content
A review of the basics :
Decision-making in preparation and in the field :
Advanced techniques :
Application races :
Prerequisites :
Practical information
Duration: 3 to 5 days
Period: June to September, depending on conditions
Location: Mont Blanc, Écrins, Vanoise or Valais (depending on conditions and your preferences)
Accommodation: mountain refuge (1 or more nights), or valley depending on the programme
Equipment required: ideally, you'll have everything you need, as you're on your own. I'll supplement as necessary.
- 40L rucksack with ice axe attachment
- Rigid mountain boots
- Steel crampons to fit your shoes
- Straight ice axe
- Mountaineering helmet
- Harness, lanyard, descender, 4 screwgate karabiners, machard, mechanical self-locking device (ti-block), lunulle hook, 3-4 120cm slings, micro-traction pulley, 2 pins, a few friends and stoppers, a few quickdraws, single and double ropes, 6mm rope.
We'll take stock together of what you've got, and I can help you fill in the gaps.
- A water-repellent windproof jacket (Gore-Tex type)
- Two thermal layers (fleece, down jacket)
- Mountaineering trousers (water-repellent and lined)
- A pair of lightweight gloves
- A pair of warm gloves or mittens
- Cap, bonnet, buff
- Headlamp
- Watch, altimeter, compass, map or mapping app
- A pair of category 4 glasses
- High protection sun cream
- A 1L water bottle
- Food (seeds, cereal bars, picnics)
- Lighter clothing for overnight stays in refuge (tights, t-shirt)
- Silk sheet
- Minimalist toiletry bag
- Personal pharmacy (compeeds, plasters, dolipranes and/or aspirin, smecta...)
This level 2 autonomous mountaineering course is aimed at those who are already mountaineering in autonomous or semi-autonomous roped parties, and who now want to take the lead in more technical terrain. If you've already taken part in a Level 1 course (or equivalent), know the basics and want to get more involved, you've come to the right place.
In an introductory course to self-sufficiency in mountaineering, we build the basics together: roping up, belays, glacier progression, simple hauling.
Here we go one step further: we learn how to manage a lead rope party on challenging courses, with specific manoeuvres, longer routes and more complex decisions to be made.
It's a logical next step for those who want to move towards real autonomy.
Yes, that's precisely the aim: to allow you to take the lead in a safe environment, knowing that I'm never far away. You improve your time management, your decision-making and your ability to react to the unexpected. That's where you gain in autonomy, confidence and relevance.
Climbing is just one aspect of mountaineering. We adapt the routes to the level of the group, with technical passages, but without aiming for performance. If you're comfortable with 4c/5a lead climbing, you climb long routes or you've already done a few rocky ridges, that's more than enough. The most important thing is your overall ease in mountain terrain.
We choose a mountain range suited to the season, the weather and your level: Mont-Blanc, Vanoise, Écrins... The terrain must allow for a variety of teaching and routes, with some huts and, sometimes, nights in the valley. The weather is part of the learning process: we adapt together, just like in a real autonomous race.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.