Autonomous mountaineering course - level 2: Guiding a rope party

Autonomous mountaineering
3 to 5 days
4 participants max.
A good climber

Autonomous mountaineering course - Level 2: Guiding a rope party

Once you've mastered the basic techniques and acquired the safety reflexes, it's time to go further. This course is for those of you who are already on your own and now want to take the lead. The emphasis is on complete preparation for the race, adaptation to real mountain conditions, and techniques for progressing roped up in mountain terrain, on more complex routes.

On the first day, we go over the basic manoeuvres to make sure they have been mastered, before a first short race to validate them on the ground. For the rest of the course, the application routes are longer and more technical than in a level 1 course. We climb in autonomous roped parties and, depending on your level of climbing, we include some major routes in the mountains, ideal terrain to test your ability to manage a complete itinerary.

Objectives of the course :

  • Knowing how to make key decisions before and during the race (timetable, weather, back-up options, etc.)
  • Gaining autonomy on more demanding races
  • Knowing and managing the situations faced by the leader: choosing how to progress, adapting your roping, knowing where and how to make a belay, managing a second in difficulty, etc.
  • Learn the advanced manoeuvres essential for true autonomy in the high mountains

Technical content

A review of the basics :

  • Glacier/snow/rock roping, belaying, protection fitting
    Single rope access, rope climbing
  • Map reading, route planning

Decision-making in preparation and in the field :

  • Decision support tools (3X3, TECAP, DCMR, CSV, etc.)
  • Reflection on bias

Advanced techniques :

  • Disengagement of a second on half-cabestan and Reverso
  • Complex reeving (double reeving, reeving with deviation, block pulley)
  • Load transfer from a tensioned rope
  • Abseiling with a second

Application races :

  • Technical mountaineering routes (snow, mixed, rock) in autonomous roped parties
  • Major mountain routes if the group's climbing level allows (up to 5c/6a max)

Prerequisites :

  • Have taken part in a level 1 course (or have solid equivalent experience)
  • Be comfortable as a second rider on PD+/AD races
  • Master the basic manoeuvres (belaying, belaying, knots, roping, clipping)
  • Be physically able to walk for 6-8 hours with a rucksack, and be able to evolve independently

Practical information
Duration: 3 to 5 days

Period: June to September, depending on conditions

Location: Mont Blanc, Écrins, Vanoise or Valais (depending on conditions and your preferences)

Accommodation: mountain refuge (1 or more nights), or valley depending on the programme

Equipment required: ideally, you'll have everything you need, as you're on your own. I'll supplement as necessary.

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You will love

A comprehensive course to enable you to practise in real-life conditions, build on your knowledge and become more independent.
A small group for close-up, high-quality teaching
A few days in the mountains

The guide's opinion

Once you've learnt the basic techniques for ensuring the safety of your party, you'll learn how to prepare your route and adapt to the different factors at play on an alpine route. This course is designed for those who are already self-sufficient and want to become true leaders.

Meeting point

What the price includes

Included

Supervision by a UIAGM-certified mountain guide
Teaching structured educational content
Loan of technical equipment if required

Not included

Transport to the meeting point
Half-board in refuge for the group
Lift passes

Frequently asked questions

This level 2 autonomous mountaineering course is aimed at those who are already mountaineering in autonomous or semi-autonomous roped parties, and who now want to take the lead in more technical terrain. If you've already taken part in a Level 1 course (or equivalent), know the basics and want to get more involved, you've come to the right place.

In an introductory course to self-sufficiency in mountaineering, we build the basics together: roping up, belays, glacier progression, simple hauling.
Here we go one step further: we learn how to manage a lead rope party on challenging courses, with specific manoeuvres, longer routes and more complex decisions to be made.
It's a logical next step for those who want to move towards real autonomy.

Yes, that's precisely the aim: to allow you to take the lead in a safe environment, knowing that I'm never far away. You improve your time management, your decision-making and your ability to react to the unexpected. That's where you gain in autonomy, confidence and relevance.

Climbing is just one aspect of mountaineering. We adapt the routes to the level of the group, with technical passages, but without aiming for performance. If you're comfortable with 4c/5a lead climbing, you climb long routes or you've already done a few rocky ridges, that's more than enough. The most important thing is your overall ease in mountain terrain.

We choose a mountain range suited to the season, the weather and your level: Mont-Blanc, Vanoise, Écrins... The terrain must allow for a variety of teaching and routes, with some huts and, sometimes, nights in the valley. The weather is part of the learning process: we adapt together, just like in a real autonomous race.

CONTACT

Need more information? Please contact me!
Single point of contact

Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.

Creative and flexible

A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.

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