Aiguille du Peigne normal route
The "voie normale du Peigne" is a long and beautiful rocky route, in varied terrain, on one of the most beautiful viewpoints above Chamonix. Easily accessible from the Plan de l'Aiguille skip, it provides a moderately challenging ascent of an iconic summit visible from the valley.
The route starts early in the morning from the Plan de l'Aiguille. An hour's walk brings you to the entrance to the Papillons couloir, which you climb up following a well-marked path. The route then begins with a few easy climbing steps that lead to the end of the Papillons ridge.
We then follow the ridge, alternating sections of walking and climbing, to the brèche 3043. An initial steep pitch (IV+), followed by a climbing traverse, leads to the "dining room" at the foot of the summit. Two further pitches, including a final chimney, lead to the summit ridge.
The descent follows the same route, with abseils and descents to the foot of the Papillons couloir.
This is a complete race, to be done in dry conditions, which requires a good footing on rocky terrain and a certain fluidity in progression. It lends itself well to learning the different types of progression: short rope, tight rope, pitches and abseiling manoeuvres, but is not an introductory course for absolute beginners.
AD / IV+ max / 500 m of climbing / 7 to 9 h round trip
It is aimed at climbers who already have some experience of mountain terrain. It's not a pure beginner's route, but it's very instructive: perfect for familiarising yourself with rock climbing without having to tackle a major difficulty.
Yes, several abseils are necessary on the way down, particularly from the summit to the dining room, and then to negotiate the steep drops below the rift.
The race will be an opportunity to fine-tune all these manoeuvres.
You need to be at ease on easy rock, be able to climb large IVs (in second position!) and not be afraid of heights. This is not a race for absolute beginners.
Yes, the skip from the Aiguille du Midi to the Plan de l'Aiguille is essential if you want to do a day's run. It means you can start your approach early, in good conditions, and return mid-afternoon.
No, it's not essential to do the race on your own. On the other hand, a night at the Plan de l'Aiguille hut is a good way to rest up, or to do a series of runs without going back down to the valley.
Yes, by staying overnight at the Plan de l'Aiguille refuge, you can follow up with other rocky routes in the area: a long route on the Peigne or the Éperon des Minettes, or a classic ridge traverse such as the Aiguille de l'M via the NNE ridge.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
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