Congo Star - Aiguille Pierre-Allain
Congo Star is an iconic route on the Aiguille Pierre Allain, just above the Refuge du Requin. At around 300 metres in difficulty, it is clearly aimed at experienced climbers. The climbing is varied and sustained, and requires mastery of 6a as a second on granite.
The approach is quick from the refuge, making it an ideal short day's ride. The fastest climbers can even do the route directly from Montenvers, if they manage their schedule well.
The descent is made via a dozen or so well-equipped abseils, leading quickly back to the foot of the face. Congo Star is a beautiful route, varied, sustained and complete, with everything you'd expect from a great granite route in Chamonix.
The Congo Star route is on the Aiguille Pierre Allain, above the Requin refuge, in the heart of the Vallée Blanche in the Mont-Blanc massif. You can get there by taking the Montenvers train, then climbing up the sea of ice to the ladders leading to the refuge. Allow 3 hours.
You'll need to master 6a as a second on granite. The climbing is sustained, with no easy pitches to recover from, and requires good experience of long routes.
Yes, fast roped parties can do the route directly from Montenvers, but you have to be quick on the approach and in the climb, and in any case sleep in the refuge afterwards.
The descent is made via 10 well-equipped abseils, which take you directly to the foot of the wall.
No, this is a major route for experienced climbers. To discover climbing at the Requin refuge, it's best to choose the more accessible routes from the Aiguille Pierre Allain, such as the normal route.
The route is around 300 metres of difficulty, spread over ten or so steady, even pitches.
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