Crossing the Dolomites on skis

Arrive late afternoon, stroll around town, meal in a Gasthaus.
Overnight in a hotel or youth hostel.

From Bolzano, we take a bus from the station to Nova Levante, the gateway to the Rosengarten massif. On arrival, we board the lifts that take us up to the Kölnerhütte refuge, situated at the foot of the impressive dolomitic peaks.

We then put on our skis for the first ascent to the Tschagerjoch / Passo delle Coronelle pass, which marks our passage to the east of the massif. The scenery is breathtaking: the limestone towers rising up around us set the tone for this crossing. Depending on the conditions, we climb this first "forcella" with our skis on our rucksack. After a fine descent down the north-east face, often in cold snow, we put our skins back on to reach the Passo di Antermoia, a secondary pass nestling between the ridges, which is not very popular at this time of year.

We then enter the Conca della Croda, a vast, wild cirque that heralds the more open atmosphere of the Sella group. A long, beautiful descent takes us to the valley floor at Campitello di Fassa.

A few kilometres by shuttle or bus takes us to Canazei, where we spend the night in comfortable accommodation. It's a good opportunity to sample Ladin specialities and rest up before the next day's long crossing.

From Canazei, a short morning transfer takes us to Plan Schiavaneis, at the foot of the southern slopes of the Sella massif. We ski up the Valon del Fos, a beautiful, deep valley that rises up between the monumental walls of the Sella. The atmosphere quickly becomes mineral, almost lunar, as we gain altitude.

The day's objective is ambitious: Piz Boè (3,152 m), the massif's highest peak. The final ascent is made with crampons, depending on the conditions. The view from the top is spectacular: a 360° vantage point over the Dolomites, with views of Marmolada, Sassolungo, the Fanes group and many others.

After a well-earned break at the summit, we set off on one of the most beautiful descents in the Dolomites: the Val de Mesdì. In this long gorge, carved between walls several hundred metres high, we alternate between big curves and more technical sections, in a unique atmosphere.

At the bottom, we join the tracks that lead quietly to Corvara in Badia, a charming Alpine village nestling in the heart of South Tyrol. Here we spend the night, enjoying the comforts of a valley night and the local cuisine.

We leave Corvara on skis, taking the lifts of the Alta Badia ski area to quickly reach the San Cassiano sector. From here, a short link takes us to the foot of the Col de Locia, the gateway to the Fanes-Sennes-Braies nature park.

The ascent to the Col de Locia is gentle and gradual. From the pass, we continue on to the Cima Lavarella (3,055 m), an isolated summit dominating the Fanes plateau, with views of the entire Dolomites. The climb is more demanding, and usually involves crampons at the end.

We retrace our steps back down to Ju dal'Ega, a small, unassuming pass that leads into the upper Fanes valley. A final short climb to the Jù de Limo takes us gently to the Lavarella refuge, nestling in an open cirque in a picture-postcard setting.

The Lavarella refuge is one of the most welcoming in the area, both rustic and comfortable, with an optional sauna for enthusiasts... A luxury in the heart of the mountains, well deserved after this beautiful day at altitude.

After three days on the trail, this day's outing from the Lavarella refuge gives us a chance to take a breather while exploring the surrounding peaks with lighter packs.

Leaving the refuge, we climb slowly up the valley to the Piza dales Diesc (3,026 m). This summit, with its smooth, regular lines, offers an attractive climb and an exceptional panorama of the Fanes plateaux, the jagged ridges of the Conturines and the great dolomitic peaks that we have already seen on previous days.

The more motivated can continue with the slightly more technical Piza dales Nü (2,960 m), accessible via a steeper slope. It adds a more alpine touch to the day, and there are no time constraints.

This day can be adapted according to the wishes of the group and the weather conditions: you can do just one summit, or simply enjoy the refuge, the exceptional setting, and why not a sauna or a good home-made cake.

It's a quieter day, a valuable opportunity to regenerate before the final stage of the raid, which will take us to the open countryside of Sennes.

We start off downhill from the Lavarella refuge, in the Fanes valley. We put on our skins to reach the Forcella Ciamin, a small, isolated pass giving access to the north side of the massif.

A long, beautiful north-facing descent takes us through a quiet, little-frequented area. We reach the hamlet of Fodara Vedla, set in a wide clearing, and then climb gently to the Sennes hut, located on a vast flat above the Pederü valley.

Last day of skiing. Early departure from the Sennes refuge to climb Riciogogn (2647m) and back. Panoramic view of the Eastern Dolomites and our route.

We then descend to the lago di Braies, a magnificent lake frozen in winter, in a picture-postcard setting. End of the tour on skis by the lake.

Transfer by bus to Dobbiaco, then return by train to Bolzano in the afternoon.

In the evening, a closing dinner at the Torchio restaurant, one of Bolzano's finest restaurants, with local specialities, South Tyrolean produce and a selection of wines to round off the week in style.

Last cappuccino, last moments in Süd-Tyrol! We head back to France, passing Verona, Lake Garda, Bergamo, Milan, Turin and the Val di Susa.