Dent du Géant, Burgener plates

Mountaineering
Day
2 participants max.
A good climber

Dent du Géant (4013m), normal route via the Burgener slabs.

A slender, spectacular summit: a vertical ascent of 4,000m of granite in an imposing high mountain setting.

With its slender shape and vertiginous walls, the Dent du Géant is one of the most beautiful rocky summits over 4,000 metres high in the Mont-Blanc massif. A veritable spire of granite resting on the Géant glacier, it has been attracting climbers in search of a technical, aerial and aesthetic ascent for over a century.

The classic route via the Burgener Plates is almost entirely on rock, in a steep and sustained alpine climbing style, with hanging belays and a summit ridge of rare elegance. Little snow, little ice: here, rock dominates from start to finish.

 

One-day format - for fast climbers
Leaving Chamonix early, we cross the Mont Blanc tunnel and climb to Pointe Helbronner (3462 m) using the Italian Skyway Monte Bianco cable car. A quick glacier approach takes us to the foot of the Dent, already impressive from below. The ascent begins with the Burgener plates, a smooth wall equipped with ropes, before several pitches of free climbing to the thin, very airy summit ridge. The summit Madonna, perched at 4,013m, offers a breathtaking panorama of the massif. Abseil down the route and return to Helbronner, then to Chamonix.

This one-day version requires you to be fast, efficient and at ease on vertical terrain. It is aimed at sporty, experienced climbers.

Two-day option with an overnight stay at the Torino refuge:
For those who prefer a more comfortable pace, I suggest doing an acclimatisation run the day before (Marbrées, Entrèves, Tour Ronde), then sleeping at the Torino hut, so that you can set off early the next day for the Dent du Géant in the best possible conditions.

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You will love

An iconic 4000m peak
A rocky, vertical climb,
Two formats to suit your profile

The guide's opinion

A slender summit at the entrance to the Rochefort ridges, it's sure to catch the eye of any mountaineer. A must-do in any mountaineer's life!

Meeting point

What the price includes

Included

Supervision by a UIAGM-certified mountain guide
Loan of specific technical equipment (harness, helmet, crampons, ice axe)

Not included

Transport to the meeting point
Ski lift passes

Frequently asked questions

For people with previous mountaineering and climbing experience, who are at ease in rocky 4c and able to climb efficiently.

This is an AD+ to D rocky route, with steep sections, hanging belays and a very aerial final ridge. Abseiling down.

Yes, if you take the first skip on the Skyway and climb efficiently. This is the preferred option for fast climbers.

A ridge run on day 1 (Entrèves, Freshfield à la Tour Ronde...), overnight stay at the Torino hut, then ascent of the Dent du Géant on day 2. An ideal option for those wishing to acclimatise and prepare themselves.

Yes, but you need to be solid in the 5c/6a granite at altitude. The slabs are steep, smooth and often damp: most roped climbers choose to use the cables in place. Free climbing is a great challenge, but requires a good level and good exposure management. You also have to keep up with the other groups!

I'll suggest a suitable alternative route (rock or mixed), or we'll reschedule if necessary. Safety comes first.

CONTACT

Need more information? Please contact me!
Single point of contact

Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.

Creative and flexible

A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.

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