Éperon Renaudie, Dent du Requin - D, 5c, 600m
The Éperon Renaudie à la Dent du Requin is a great classic, wild and complete, opened in 1946 by Mr and Mrs Renaudie in big shoes with wooden wedges! Only a dozen or so pitons remain today, making it a sparsely equipped and authentic route.
We set off from the Requin hut, waking up at 4am and making a quick approach with crampons over a steep névé to reach the foot of the face. The route begins with a short rope climb over easy rock faces (III), before the wall steepens sharply. The route then becomes more challenging, with long sections of IV+/V, and a beautiful 30m dihedral in 5c at the top of the bastion.
We continue with an easier climb to the summit of the Dent du Requin (3422 m), a veritable vantage point in the heart of the Vallée Blanche, with a unique view of the Aiguilles de Chamonix, the Drus, the Aiguille Verte and the Bassin de Talèfre, the Aiguille du Moine and the Grandes Jorasses...
The descent is not to be taken lightly, as a second race begins at the summit. Twenty or so 50m abseils, re-equipped in 2018 by ENSA, allow you to reach the starting névé, but require efficiency in rope handling.
It's a route of the same calibre as the Aiguille de la République normal route: shorter than the Grépon-Mer de Glace traverse, but steeper and more sustained than the south ridge of the Aiguille du Moine. A great preparation for the Drus traverse.
This route is best suited to experienced climbers who are fast and efficient in this type of terrain.
You'll need to be comfortable as a second on a steady IV, and efficient on a tight rope on a III. This route is aimed at experienced climbers.
Yes, you have to start from the refuge. Wake up around 4am to take advantage of the best conditions, keep to the timetable and avoid missing the train if you get off.
For a fast roped party: around 7h30 from hut to hut (1h approach, 4h on the route, 2h30 abseiling). For the majority of roped parties, allow 9 to 10 hours.
The route remains sparsely equipped, which contributes to its wild character. Only a dozen pitons remain. A set of friends and ropes is required to complete the route.
Yes, if you stay an extra night in the hut, you can go and climb a route on the nearby Aiguille Pierre Allain, or consider another major route in the Vallée Blanche.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
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