Glière south ridge - Vanoise
Dominating the Glière valley, clearly visible from Pralognan-la-Vanoise between the Pointes de Creux Noir, the Aiguille de la Vanoise and the Grande Casse, the Grande Glière forms a fine ridge on its southern slope. A classic rocky route in the Vanoise, it is complete, varied and technically not very difficult, with a short section on a glacier and an aesthetic but not very sustained rocky ridge. It is an excellent route for discovering mountaineering in mixed terrain. The high mountain atmosphere is very much in evidence, with a night-time start and spectacular views from the summit.
🕓 We meet the day before at the Vanoise refuge, easily accessible from Pralognan-la-Vanoise. We spend the night there, leaving early the next day.
🌄 Early in the morning, we climb towards the Col des Schistes, which we reach at daybreak. The first rocky ridge, never difficult but sometimes unstable, quickly takes us to the small south glacier de la Glière. We cross it to reach the Col de la Glière and the start of the southern ridge proper.
🧗♂️ The climb, which is never sustained, takes place on the edge, in an airy atmosphere. A few climbing steps punctuate the progression, but the path always remains as easy as possible. Just before the summit, the statue of the Virgin Mary welcomes you for the last few metres.
🗻 The view from the summit is breathtaking, with a 360° panorama of the Alps: Vanoise, Ecrins, Mont-Blanc and the Italian peaks.
🔁 The descent is by the same route to the glacier, then a slab crossing (equipped ramp) takes us back to the return route, via the Glière valley and Lac des Vaches.
For anyone in good physical shape, with some previous experience of mountaineering or climbing. No high level of technical ability is required, but the day is long.
Yes, a short passage on a glacier requires you to know how to walk with crampons. I'll equip you and show you the right technique.
The ridge does not exceed level III, and the climbing pitches are short and well protected. The atmosphere is airy without being vertiginous.
The walk takes around 8 to 10 hours, from the refuge to the car park. You'll need to get up very early to take advantage of the best conditions, and not be there in the afternoon because of the thunderstorms.
No, this route is not an initiation. However, it can be combined with a first ridge traverse the day before, after which I'll assess the feasibility of the south ridge of La Glière.
Yes, it is possible to set off even earlier in the morning from the Fontanettes car park. This is only possible for people in excellent physical condition. To be discussed over the phone.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
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