Ice climbing - Chamonix & Val d'Aoste
I've decided to put Chamonix and the Val d'Aoste on the same page. These two valleys are so close, thanks to the Mont-Blanc tunnel, that it's quite possible to go climbing there for the day, choosing the most favourable side depending on the conditions or the weather.
Chamonix's flagship waterfall is undoubtedly the Argentière glacier, with its right and left banks. There are some great waterfalls for experienced climbers, with grades ranging from 4 to 6+, and up to 150 metres in length. Some of the routes have become emblematic. On the right bank, the classic Shiva Lingam, opened by Thierry Renault and Pierre-André Rhem, is a superb but demanding route: it can only be considered in cold weather and perfectly stable snow conditions, as the exposure is marked. On the left bank, the EMHM waterfall is another benchmark, regularly climbed and one of the must-do routes in the area. Other interesting routes can be found in the valley, notably in the Aiguilles de Chamonix, along the Mer de Glace, or at Tacul for a high mountain / gully atmosphere.
There are two ideal sectors for discovering the discipline or improving your technique: the artificial waterfall in the Bérard valley and the Crèmerie in Argentière, where you can learn the basics and gain confidence before tackling the great natural lines.
Passing through the tunnel, you enter another world: the Val d'Aoste. Cogne, with its two valleys of Valeille and Valnontey, has become an international benchmark. There's no shortage of classics: Patri, Repentance, Col Couloir, Stella Artice, Tuborg, Monday Money, Il Candelabro del Coyote, Lillaz Gully, Cascade de Lillaz and Pattinaggio Artistico. There are too many to mention. But there's a downside to this success: these major routes attract so many climbers that the experience can quickly lose its charm. In ice climbing, you have to know how to play with the crowds and the conditions!
My vision of ice climbing is not to get up at night, run up the approach or pile into the belay with other roped parties. Instead, I like to explore unjustly neglected routes or discover the other valleys of Valle d'Aosta: Valpelline, Valsavarenche, Val di Rhêmes... They too are full of magnificent waterfalls, often quieter but just as interesting.
Finally, climbing in Valle d'Aosta is a real immersion. The charm of the Valle d'Aosta villages, the warm welcome in the gîtes, the strong morning coffee, the Italian cuisine, and the opportunity to take home some good produce.
As you can see, even if you've come for a waterfall holiday in Chamonix, I'm likely to take you over the Italian border to vary the pleasures and enjoy the best of each valley.
Yes, everything is possible. For beginners, sectors such as the artificial waterfall at Bérard or La Crèmerie in Argentière are ideal. Here you can discover ice climbing in complete safety, on lines suitable for first ice axe strokes. For those who already have some experience, you can turn to the larger, more technical waterfalls, either in Argentière or in the Val d'Aoste.
I can lend you ice axes and crampons if you don't have them, and I supply all the necessary protective equipment: ice screws, double ropes, quickdraws, etc. If you already have your own equipment, we can use it after checking its condition. All you need is suitable footwear (hard, cramponable) and warm clothing to cope with the winter conditions.
For a discovery tour, a single day is enough. But if you have the opportunity, I always prefer at least a 2-day format. To really make the most of it, aim for 5 days. This allows you to link up several sites, vary the routes and, above all, gain experience. Between Chamonix and the Val d'Aoste, the proximity means you can even combine two different sectors in a short space of time.
I recommend the gîtes and small hotels in Valle d'Aosta. They offer excellent value for money, a warm welcome and Italian cuisine that's perfect for recovering after a long day in the cold. Being able to enjoy a large, comfortable bed, a hot shower and the chance to dry your clothes properly is a great way to set off again in good conditions the next day.
Valle d'Aosta is famous for Cogne, and in particular its Valeille and Valnontey valleys. There are many legendary waterfalls: Patri, Repentance, Stella Artice, Tuborg, Monday Money, Lillaz Gully and the Lillaz waterfall. But there are also other, quieter valleys with a wealth of itineraries: Valpelline, Valsavarenche, Val di Rhêmes, ideal for avoiding the crowds and discovering another facet of ice climbing in Italy.
In Chamonix, the main attraction is the Argentière glacier. Famous classics include Shiva Lingam on the right bank and the EMHM waterfall on the left bank. These routes are aimed at experienced climbers. For beginners, two sites are ideal: the Crèmerie in Argentière and the artificial waterfall at Bérard, which offer a first approach before moving on to the big waterfalls.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
