Mont-Blanc via Gonella: Italian normal route of Mont Blanc
Less travelled than its French cousin, the Italian normal route offers a more aesthetic, more difficult and wilder ascent of Mont Blanc. It's a great alternative for those who want to experience the high mountains in a more authentic way, away from the crowds at Le Goûter.
From the Gonella refuge, perched at 3071 metres, you climb up the vast Dôme glacier to the Aiguilles Grises col, before reaching the Dôme du Goûter, where the route joins the French normal route. The climb then continues along the Bosses ridge to the summit.
This route, completed for the first time on 1 August 1890 by Giovanni Achille Ratti - the future Pope Pius XI - and his companions, is still a route for connoisseurs. It requires stamina, good acclimatisation, experience of glacier walking and a definite taste for large-scale alpine environments.
There are no ski lifts here: everything is done by leg power, in a grandiose setting where Mont Blanc is worth every step. This is a route that I recommend to mountaineers looking for a real adventure at altitude, in a spectacular unspoilt setting.
If we have never climbed together, any ascent of Mont Blanc will be systematically preceded by 3 days of mountaineering together, so that you can discover the activity, the environment, the equipment, and so that together we can evaluate the coherence of the project, your physical and psychological aptitudes, and your reaction to altitude.
Important information: Reservations for Mont Blanc refuges are very complicated, even if you book early. Contact me well in advance.
Morning departure for the Gonella refuge from Val Veny (1730m) in Italy. From here, the approach and ascent begin. Overnight at the Gonella refuge (3071m).
Yes, the ascent of Mont Blanc via Gonella is generally considered to be more difficult than the ascent via Le Goûter. The route is longer, more glaciated and has no mechanical support (no train or cable car). You need to be in good physical condition, well acclimatised and have a minimum of mountaineering experience to undertake this route.
The Mont Blanc route via Gonella presents a number of objective risks, particularly in terms of crevasses and falling seracs on the way up the glacier. On the way down, if we choose the normal French route, we cross the Goûter couloir, notorious for its rockfalls. To sum up, the dangers are very real, and Mont-Blanc, especially via the Italian route, is a serious high-altitude climb that requires vigilance and mountain experience.
There are two main options for reaching the Gonella refuge:
By road: by car or taxi to Val Veny, at the end of the Courmayeur valley on the Italian side. Then walk up to the Gonella refuge (approx. 3 to 4 hours' walk).
On foot from France: crossing the Vallée Blanche from the Aiguille du Midi, then descending to Courmayeur via the Monte Bianco Skyway. This option offers a great approach, a nice loop and a comfortable overnight stay in Courmayeur.
The summit of Mont Blanc is 4810 metres above sea level. Conditions there can be very harsh, even in the middle of summer: strong winds, intense cold, reduced visibility. I always choose the most favourable weather window possible, but you have to be prepared to work in a demanding and changing environment.
Yes, as with any ascent above 4,000 metres, the effects of altitude can be felt: breathlessness, headaches, nausea. Good acclimatisation is essential, and I include it in the programme, with a night at altitude and a gradual ascent.
Yes, of course. Safety always comes first. If the conditions become bad or you don't feel up to continuing, we decide together to turn back. The objective is the experience, not the summit at any price.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
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