Mont Blanc voie normale du Goûter: first ascent in 1786, Mont Blanc's altitude and its role in the history of mountaineering make it a must-see mountain in the Alps. You can see it from all sides, towering above you with its terrible glaciers on the north side, the 3 Monts on the east side and its steep walls on the Italian side. Try a 3-day ascent via the normal route, staying in the Goûter and Tête Rousse refuges.
Climbing Mont Blanc is a long and demanding endurance effort at high altitude, in an environment that can quickly become hostile. You need to be used to working in the mountains in technical terrain (snow, sharp ridges, scree, scree slopes, desecalades) to be able to climb to and from the summit with sufficient margin.
If you've never done any mountaineering, and we've never been on a mountain together, I will systematically offer you a compulsory mountaineering discovery course, either earlier in the season or the year before.. You will discover the activity, the environment and the equipment, and together we will assess the coherence of the project, your physical and moral aptitudes, and your reaction to altitude.
Important information: Reservations for Mont Blanc refuges are very complicated, even if you book early. Contact me well in advance.
Depart in the morning for the Tête Rousse refuge, taking the cable car and then the Mont Blanc tramway to the Nid d'Aigle. From here, the approach and ascent begin. Overnight at the Tête Rousse refuge (3167m).
Depart in the morning for the Tête Rousse refuge, taking the cable car and then the Mont Blanc tramway to the Nid d'Aigle. From here, the approach and ascent begin. Overnight at the Tête Rousse refuge (3167m).
Early morning departure. We pass the couloir du Goûter with good visibility, then climb the mixed ridge, which is a little technical, to the refuge du Goûter (3835m). We set foot on the glacier. Roped in, crampons on and ice axe in hand, we climb the slopes below the Dôme du Goûter, passing the Col du Dôme (4236m) and then the Vallot shelter (4362m). From this point on, the face of the climb changes. We leave the wide slopes for an increasingly tapered ridge of snow and ice. These are the Bosses, the most physically demanding section for climbers. Finally, we reach the summit around mid-day. Conditions permitting, we enjoy the moment and the view, before considering the descent to the Goûter refuge.
Important note: The descent is via the same route, with some steep and exposed sections. It is therefore essential to be clear and honest about your physical condition on the way up, so as not to force your way to the summit and find yourself too exhausted to descend safely. In addition, wind, cold and visibility are sometimes unforeseeable obstacles to a climb. They are part of high mountain activities, and must be accepted. Thus, the assessment of the physical condition of the participants, the weather conditions and the terrain are left to the discretion of the high mountain guide. Ropes in the mountains work together. If one out of two clients is unable to continue the ascent, the whole group will descend.
Early in the morning, we descend the Goûter ridge to the Tête Rousse refuge. Then down to the Nid d'Aigle, where we take the tramway to the Col de Voza, and finally the cable car back to Les Houches. A drink in the valley to round off this adventure!
- 40L rucksack with ice axe attachment
- Rigid mountain boots
- Steel crampons to match your boots (available on loan)
- Straight ice axe (available on loan)
- Harness (available on loan)
- Mountaineering helmet (available on loan)
- Gaiters if your trousers require them
- Telescopic poles recommended
- A water-repellent windproof jacket (Gore-Tex type)
- Two thermal layers (fleece, down jacket)
- Mountaineering trousers (water-repellent and lined)
- Lighter clothing for overnight stays in refuge (tights, t-shirt)
- Guetres
- A pair of lightweight gloves
- A pair of warm gloves or mittens
- Over-gloves if necessary
- Bonnet, buff
- Charged headlamp
- A pair of category 4 glasses
- A ski mask in case of bad weather
- High protection sun cream
- A water bottle of at least 1.5 litres and/or thermos flask
- Food (seeds, cereal bars, picnics)
Climbing Mont Blanc is not a simple hike. You need to be in good physical shape, have good stamina, and ideally have some previous experience of the high mountains. Before the ascent, I always offer technical preparation and acclimatisation days.
The ideal season is from mid-June to early September. Outside this period, conditions are often too technical or dangerous.
Altitude can cause headaches, nausea, shortness of breath, difficulty sleeping... These reactions are normal and vary from person to person. To limit these effects, we always plan to acclimatise gradually in the days leading up to the summit. As your guide, I keep a close eye on your condition throughout the ascent. If necessary, we adapt the pace, take longer breaks, or come back down - safety comes first.
Yes, you need to be able to walk 8 to 12 hours at altitude, with more than 1,500 metres of ascent on the day of the summit. Good physical preparation beforehand is highly recommended.
I offer both. There is 1 guide for a maximum of 2 people for the summit.
I'll provide you with a full list before you leave. You'll need basic mountaineering equipment (crampons, ice axe, harness, helmet, mountaineering boots), warm clothing and mountaineering gear. Technical equipment can be loaned or hired.
As early as possible! The high season (June to September) is very popular, and places in mountain huts are limited. Ideally, you should contact me between 3 and 6 months in advance to give yourself time to plan your preparation, book accommodation and organise acclimatisation. This also allows us to talk calmly about your objectives, your level and possible options.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.