Nonne - Évêque traverse: classic mountaineering in Chamonix granite, between Talèfre and Charpoua
Between the Aiguille du Moine and the Aiguille Verte, the summits of the Écclésiastiques form an elegant granite ridge: the Nonne, the Évêque, the Cardinal and the Enfant de Chœur. The Nonne-Évêque traverse is a complete rocky ridge run, straddling the Talèfre and Charpoua basins.
From Montenvers, we reach the Couvercle hut (about 4 hours), the ideal place to climb a few pitches on the nearby walls and brush up on the ropes.
On the day of the race, an hour's glacier approach to reach the rimaye at the foot of the couloir created by the Moine-Nonne breach. A few easy pitches take us to the foot of the summit triptych. The high point of the Nonne is the central monolith. We abseil down from here to continue the climb.
This is followed by an aerial traverse to l'Évêque: ridge descent, passage of the famous "razor", and if time permits, a return trip to the Nonette. At the Nonne-Évêque gap, the route becomes more technical: sustained climbing in 5 pitches to reach the summit.
We abseil down the same route, find the glacier and return to the refuge. A varied and aesthetic route, ideal to complete a mountaineering holiday around the Couvercle refuge.
Yes, this is an intermediate level route: you need to be comfortable in mixed terrain (glacier + rock), know how to climb in big boots and second shoes in the 5, and be safe on an aerial ridge.
The ridge includes easy rock (3/4) and five more sustained pitches (5) on the final ascent of l'Évêque. You'll need to have climbed this type of route as a second.
Absolutely. The Nonne-Évêque traverse combines very well with the south ridge of the Aiguille du Moine, or a day's climbing above the refuge. It's one of the best options in the area.
Allow around 7 to 8 hours round trip from the refuge, depending on the level of the group and the conditions. It takes a little over an hour to reach the foot of the couloir, and the same for the return journey from the glacier.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
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