Petite Pasquier, Aiguille de la Vanoise - Great historic north face route
380m, 15 pitches, TD, 6a+ max
La Petite Pasquier is a great historic route (1960) on the north face of the Aiguille de la Vanoise, offering 380m of sustained, homogeneous climbing. The route follows a magnificent dihedral of high quality rock, in a typical north face atmosphere: shade, coolness and verticality. The difficulty is mainly 5/5+, with two pitches of 6a/+.
The climbing is varied and aerial, with a particularly gassy central section. From Les Barmettes (chairlift available) or Les Fontanettes, the route is approached quickly in the morning. Once the summit is reached, the traverse to the east joins the path and grassy slopes of the south face, allowing a rapid descent via Moriond to the starting point.
Nearby, its cousins Électrochoc, Desmaison (harder) and Grande Pasquier (much more demanding) complete the legendary quartet on the North Face.
- Harness, helmet, lanyard, belayer/descender (supplied if necessary)
- Crampons, ice axe if necessary for the névé at the bottom of the face at the start of the season
- Climbing shoes
-25-30L rucksack
- A water-repellent windproof jacket
- A thermal layer (fleece or thin down jacket)
- Climbing trousers
- A 1L water bottle
- Food (seeds, cereal bars, picnics)
No. This major route is reserved for climbers already experienced in equipped major routes and comfortable in 5+. The commitment, altitude and length require a good knowledge of the terrain.
You need to be comfortable in 5+ as a second and able to climb two pitches in 6a/+. Stamina is important: allow around 5 hours of continuous climbing in slippers.
No, the descent is on foot. From the summit, cross over to the east and then descend the grassy slopes on the south face to Moriond and the starting point.
This is not compulsory. Starting from Les Fontanettes or Les Barmettes is perfectly feasible as a day trip. On the other hand, sleeping in the area allows you to take advantage of several routes on the Aiguille.
Yes, the north face of the Aiguille de la Vanoise is an ideal playground. Over several days, you can climb Électrochoc for greater difficulty or tackle Grande Pasquier for a bigger challenge.
A lift pass for the Barmettes chairlift reduces the approach and saves energy for the track. However, it is only possible to use the lifts during the summer season.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.