Traversée de la Meije: A major mountaineering race in the Écrins massif.
The Traversée de la Meije is one of the finest ridge climbs in the Alps. The last major summit to be climbed in the history of mountaineering by Pierre Gaspard in 1877, the Meije is now a real objective for any experienced mountaineer.
This emblematic summit of the Oisans region offers a wide-ranging, aesthetic and varied itinerary:
On the first day, we climb to the Promontoire hut, suspended on the south face, after crossing the Brèche de la Meije from La Grave, or by climbing from La Bérarde if we've preceded the climb by a few days together to prepare for it - my favourite format! I'll tell you more below.
On the second day, we climb the Grand Pic de la Meije via the Promontoire ridge. After a route up the face, the Castelnau wall, we climb up the square glacier, then climb the Grand Pic! What follows is an aerial traverse of the ridges of the Meije, at an altitude of almost 4,000 metres. We abseil down, passing several breaches and rocky overhangs, and savour the breathtaking views of the Écrins peaks.
If we keep to the timetable - and that's the point! - we descend directly to Villar-d'Arène. If not, we'll spend the night at the Aigle refuge for a more comfortable return the next day.
We reach the refuge de la Selle by taking the La Grave cable car, then swinging over to the south face via the Dôme de la Lauze onto the refuge.
To consider the Traversée de la Meije, you need to be an experienced mountaineer, comfortable in the 4 on the rock in big boots, with good endurance at high altitude. Experience of long climbs is essential.
I'll give you a detailed list of the equipment you'll need when you register. You'll need a helmet, a harness, light crampons, a technical ice axe, thin, warm gloves, a light down jacket and a waterproof jacket. The complete equipment will depend on the conditions.
The best period is generally from the end of June to the beginning of September, depending on mountain conditions and when the refuges are open.
Allow two full days:
Day 1: Climb to the Promontoire refuge.
Day 2: traverse of the Meije (Grand Pic + ridges), descent. You can return the same day or the following day, depending on your chosen programme.
The Traversée de la Meije is a major technical and committed mountaineering race, where the route, exposure and timing require perfect mastery. As your guide, I'll be there to help you maximise your experience, ensure your safety and manage your timetable.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
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