Traversée des Drus (3754m) - A major rocky climb above the Mer de Glace
The traversée des Drus is one of the most beautiful and demanding rocky climbs in the Mont Blanc massif. A veritable tooth of granite rising above the Mer de Glace, the silhouette of the Petit Dru (3730 m) and the Grand Dru (3754 m) dominates Chamonix and is the stuff of dreams for many mountaineers. The length, commitment and quality of the rock make this traverse an exceptional route, reserved for mountaineers experienced in mountain terrain.
The race is spread over three days, with the ascent to the Charpoua refuge, the traverse of the Drus, and a final day for a more comfortable return.
A climb steeped in history
The first ascent of Grand Dru was made on 12 September 1878 by Clinton Thomas Dent with Chamonix guides James Walker Hartley, Alexander Burgener and Kaspar Maurer.
The first full traverse (Petit Dru > Grand Dru) was made in 1901 by the guides Jean Ravanel, Joseph Simond, Joseph-Marie Couttet and Alfred Simond.
It was a feat at the time, and today it remains a benchmark in high-mountain rock climbing.
We take the Montenvers train (1913 m) up the path to the Charpoua refuge (2841 m), perched on a mineral promontory facing the north face of the Drus. The atmosphere here is unique, a blend of solitude and granite.
This is a challenging rocky route, reserved for experienced mountaineers who are comfortable climbing in big boots (level 4+/5 max) and can cope with 12 hours of technical effort. You need to be able to manage your mental and physical autonomy throughout a long and aerial route.
The route is taken in summer, generally from July to early September, when the rock is dry and the glacier still passable. The weather conditions and the state of the névés or rimayes can have a major influence on the extent of the climb.
It takes two days to cross the Drus, but a third day adds comfort to the descent.
Day 1: climb to the Charpoua refuge
D2: Petit Dru > Grand Dru crossing, night at La Charpoua
Day 3: Return to Montenvers
The Charpoua sector is full of great ridge and rock climbing, such as in the Flammes de Pierre, or in the foothills of the Moine. But after crossing the Drus, a rest is often welcome!
Yes, the traversée des Drus is an advanced rock mountaineering route, with climbing sections up to grade 5, on sometimes exposed, long and challenging terrain. It is essential that you already have a good deal of experience of major rocky routes in the high mountains. For example, the south ridge of the Aiguille du Moine, the Charmoz-Grépon traverse, the Papillons au Peigne ridge, the Aiguilles du Diable traverse...
For this major rock climbing race in the Mont-Blanc massif, you'll need to have a full set of high-mountain equipment: crampons, ice axe, helmet, harness, hard boots, gloves, warm clothing and windbreaker, as well as a light, well-organised rucksack. As the rock is often dry in summer, we don't use crampons on the main section, but glacier equipment is necessary for the approach and descent.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
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