Climbing

Climbing in the Ardèche: Cirque de Gens

Of all the great climbing areas in the Ardèche, one we visited was a must: the cirque de Gens at Chauzon.

By Baptiste

26/10/2020

The Ardèche is famous for its magnificent, winding gorges, with limestone cliffs rising above the rivers through which kayakers, swimmers and hikers pass. Among all the highlights, we visited one of the region's must-sees: the cirque de Gens at Chauzon. Strictly speaking, it's not a cirque, but rather a 180° bend carved out by the River Ardèche, revealing the upper strata at the top of the gorge: a wall of limestone almost 50m high over more than a kilometre, with a more or less wide valley at its foot.
Its orientation makes it ideal for spring, autumn and winter, but certainly impassable in summer. Protected from the north wind, it can be very cold at the top on the plateau, while climbing bare-chested 50m below!

Without going so far as to say that the routes are under-priced, we can clearly state that they are demanding.

Around ten sectors for more than 300 routes, mainly in the 6-7 range. The site isn't new, so be careful with the ratings! Without going so far as to say that the routes are under-rated, we can clearly state that they are demanding. The points are (very) widely spaced but always in the right place, with rare exceptions. Placed just before the hard pitches or when it really becomes necessary to put one in. If they're very far apart, that means it's easy! Be careful, though, as the first is often a long way from the ground and the second can almost always cause a return to the ground. Another drawback is that U-shaped anchors are no longer standardised.

Picks, water drops, cracks, rulers, the limestone or yellow is rich in holds. Add to this the inverted columns and you have a varied, technical climb [... ].

As for the climbing, it's great on the whole, and if you choose your routes, you'll come across some nuggets. On the whole, the site is characterised by vertical routes with a slightly slabbed finish. You need to know how to put your feet down, but they are there. Picks, water drops, cracks, rulers, the grey or yellow limestone is rich in holds. The climbing is varied, technical, sometimes hard to read on sight, but just enough to make you think a little while you find a solution. Some of the walls have slightly overhanging profiles (Turbulence, La Grotte, Compet sectors) and roofs and overhangs (Les Toits sector).

In conclusion, the Cirque de Gens is a historic climbing site in the Ardèche, a must-see if you can climb to this level (pitches are compulsory, and it's impossible to imagine going out on an artificial unless you have a 2.50m pole), and if you're looking for some great climbing.

If you're unlucky enough to find yourself on a rainy day, there are a few other sites in the Ardèche that are sheltered from the rain and have good overhangs, so you can save your climbing holiday. But above all, the region is full of sights to see (like the Pont d'Arc), little villages to wander through, wine cellars for tasting, and of course the Grotte Chauvet 2, which will easily fill a day of bad weather. Not to be missed!

Some notable routes:

Witnesses saw nothing 7b - Competent sector

Nice, long, complete in a wide variety of styles. A memorable lift with a left hand on colo.

La chouette 7b - La Grotte sector

Blocky, but in the right sense of the word: lively, dynamic steps that leave you with a good feeling of satisfaction once you've done them.

La Tarentelle 6a - La Grotte sector

A fine ascent in a gully then a slab finish.

Cool coulée 6a+ - Metropolitan Area

Patinated and first point quite high, but great in style. Big moves, maybe a bit morpho. The 2nd part in 6c+ is worth it.

La rose pourpre 7b+ - Turbulence sector

Top class. Superb rock, a few twitchy holds that don't detract from the pleasure of the climb. Great range of movements, stats... Or not at all!

Crac Boum Hue 6a+

In true Chamonix crack style... Puzzling and magnificent! One of the hardest and most beautiful 6a+ climbs I've ever done. You can see it from a distance, but a real climber's eye is bound to stop on it.

Plaisirs d'amour L1 7a+ - L2 6c+

Superb and psychological: some points very far apart. A slightly overhanging start on good holds, then a traverse far above the point, and a foxhole finish in a crack/passage of everything, where I got my whole right arm stuck! I didn't understand a word of L2, and came back down with my tail between my legs at the 3rd point... Mystery to be solved!