Aiguille Dibona, compulsory visit (3130 m)
12 pitches - 6a+ max - A classic granite climb in the heart of Oisans
A legendary route, opened by Pascal Junique, on one of the most emblematic peaks in the Oisans region. Visite Obligatoire is one of the most famous granite routes in the Alps at this level. It's a must for any climber comfortable in 6a who wants to discover the unique atmosphere of La Dibona.
We meet on the first day to climb to the Soreiller refuge. It's a long walk through a beautiful valley to the refuge, which seems so high up at the foot of the Dibona. The best way to make the most of this first day is to climb a small big route halfway up, or to go straight to the refuge where we'll find some rinds nearby. A warm and authentic welcome at the refuge, what a pleasure to immerse ourselves in the mountain atmosphere so typical of the Oisans!
The next morning, there's no need to get up at the crack of dawn. The wall is just above the refuge, and we take advantage of the first rays of sunshine to launch ourselves into the route just as the slab starts to heat up.
The first two pitches on very thin slabs immediately set the tone: footing, balance and a good reading of the rock. The rest of the route becomes more varied, with a few athletic sections to get over small overhangs, then a calmer section to the Boell ledges, perfect for taking a breather. The rest of the route is in a demanding slab-and-groove style, with a technical 6a crux that's all about finesse. Following the edge of the ridge, you finally reach the slender summit of Aiguille Dibona, perched above the Soreiller valley.
The descent is via the normal route. This is an aesthetically pleasing, homogeneous and interesting route to climb, which fully justifies its name: Compulsory visit.
Lengths in detail :
L1. 6a+ - L2. 6a+ - L3. 6a - L4. 6a - L5. 6a+ - L6. 5a - L7. 5c - L8. 6a - L9. 6a - L10. 6a - L11. 6a - L12. 5b
Visite obligatoire is a large, homogeneous and sustained 6a route, with a few 6a+ passages. There are no extreme pitches, but the whole route requires stamina, consistency and good footing. It's a perfect route for climbers at this level who want to climb a fine alpine route.
The descent is via the normal route of the Aiguille Dibona, an easy ridge (max grade II/III) that can be climbed by de-escalation or abseiling. It's a great way to finish the route, with a final, more alpine section.
The Dibona is made of very high quality granite. The climbing is varied and aesthetic: thin slabs at the start, athletic passages in small overhangs, grooves and cracks. It's a great place to learn how to climb properly on granite, with modern equipment that's not always so close!
The climb to the refuge takes around 2h30. If you leave early, you can climb a short route along the way, or some pitches in the rind near the refuge in the afternoon. It's a good way to discover the rock and enjoy yourself before the big route the next day.
No, the Obligatory Visit is entirely rocky, with no glacier approach. Ice axes and crampons are not normally necessary. Access to both the refuge and the route is in trainers or approach shoes. Early in the season, we may encounter névés on the descent.
The ideal period is from early July to late September, or even October if the autumn is dry. The granite heats up quickly in the morning, and the orientation of the route means you can climb comfortably from 9am. In June, there may still be snow on the ascent to the refuge and on the descent of the normal route. This does not make the route impossible, but it does mean that you need to bring your mountaineering equipment.
The Aiguille Dibona and the Soreiller massif are full of possibilities:
- Other great equipped routes and adventure terrain on the south and east faces of the Dibona (Madier, Voie des Savoyards, Voie des Nains, DDE, etc.).
- Easy, wild ridge runs (Occidentale du Soreiller ridge)
- Superb long granite routes on the Orientale or nearby Rouget
It is also possible to organise a multi-day trip, with a theme of major granite routes and ridge climbs, starting from the Soreiller refuge.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
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