Voie du Couchant - Bec de Sormiou: Clearly visible at the end of the Calanque de Sormiou, the eponymous Bec de Sormiou is a natural eye-catcher. Set on the edge of the water, it offers an aerial climb, almost with your feet in the Mediterranean. Opened in 1957, the Couchant route is one of the massif's great historic classics, at an accessible technical level and with breathtaking views.
From Sormiou beach, a short approach walk takes us along the rocks above the sea. In just half an hour, we reach the start of the route, right on the water's edge, with an already very unique atmosphere.
A great way to discover Sormiou
With its five pitches, sculpted rock, varied passages and exceptional setting, the Couchant route is a great option for a first major route in the calanques. It allows you to discover the unique atmosphere of the Bec de Sormiou, between turquoise sea and white limestone.
Lengths in detail
L1 - 4c, L2 - 5c+, L3 - 5b, L4 - 5b, L5 - 5c/6a
The Couchant route at the Bec de Sormiou is for climbers comfortable in 5b/5c lead climbing. The last pitch is more physical (5c/6a), but can be easily climbed. This is a very good first major route in the Calanques for climbers with a little experience of cliff climbing.
Yes, the route is fully equipped with comfortable belays. The equipment is close together in the key pitches. You don't need to bring any extra equipment, such as belay devices or friends.
The route is east-facing, which means it gets the sun in the morning and goes into the shade in the late afternoon. So it's perfect for a late day climb, often with an incredible atmosphere at sunset. The golden light over the sea makes for an unforgettable experience.
The Couchant route is an excellent choice for a weekend or a climbing course in the Calanques, to be combined with other great classic routes:
In En-Vau: the Saphir route, with its sculpted rock and vertical atmosphere,
In Sugiton: the Route des Marseillais, a major itinerary with views over the Mediterranean.
It's a perfect sequence for varying exposures, climbing styles and panoramas.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
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