A complete traverse of the Eiger
The Mittellegi ridge is one of the most beautiful climbs in the Swiss Alps. While most ascents begin at the Mittellegihütte, I prefer a more complete version: the full Mittellegi.
From Grindelwald, the route gradually ascends from the alpine pastures to the summit of the Eiger before descending onto the glaciers of the Bernese Oberland to reach the Jungfraujoch. This progression gives a real coherence to the race: you cross the entire mountain, successively discovering the pastures, the limestone cliffs, the great Mittellegi ridge, the summit of the Eiger, and then the glacial world of the Mönch and the Jungfrau.
The difficulty of this ascent lies not so much in the climbing as in the length of the approach, the commitment required, and the numerous exposed sections. It's an adventure for experienced mountaineers wishing to discover one of the most beautiful routes in the Alps.
The different formulas
The ideal formula to fully enjoy this great crossing. Two unique refuges, a mountain journey.
Day 1: Grindelwald – Alpiglen – Ostegghütte
Day 2: Ostegghütte – Mittellegihütte
Day 3: Eiger – Jungfraujoch
Direct ascent to the Mittellegi Hut from Eismeer station, followed by an ascent of the Eiger via the Mittellegi ridge the following day.
A sporting version allowing for the entire route to be completed in a single day. This option is reserved for mountaineers with excellent physical condition and extensive experience on ridge routes.
From Grindelwald, the train reaches Alpiglen, the starting point of the race. A climb of about two hours leads to Ostegghütte, a small, unguarded hut nestled below the north face of the Eiger.
This climb is suitable for mountaineers with prior experience of ridge routes. You must be comfortable climbing up to French grade 5a in mountain boots, move confidently on exposed terrain, and be capable of undertaking three consecutive mountain days.
The full Mittellegi ridge allows you to traverse the entire mountain, from Grindelwald to the Jungfraujoch. This complete route offers a richer adventure than the classic option, which begins directly at the Mittellegihütte.
The two climbs are of a comparable standard but present different difficulties. The Matterhorn requires more sustained climbing, while the full Mittellegi ridge is distinguished by its length and several airy sections where ease on ridge terrain is essential.
I recommend a three-day programme. It allows you to fully enjoy the route, limit fatigue and approach the summit in the best possible conditions.
The season generally runs from July to September. However, the choice of dates depends on snow conditions, rock conditions, and the weather.
Yes. It is possible to go directly to the Mittellegihütte from Eismeer and then climb the Eiger the following day. This option is shorter but does not allow you to complete the entire ridge.
Yes, for highly trained mountaineers, it is possible to consider the Mittellegi Express, connecting Grindelwald to the Jungfraujoch in a single day. This option is reserved for fast teams, who are perfectly at ease in alpine terrain.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
