La Vanoise offers remarkable terrain for alpine multi-pitch climbing. Here, the approach is an integral part of the undertaking: alpine pastures, isolated refuges, rock faces overlooking glaciers and hanging valleys. Climbing regains a sense of mountain progression, with routes leading to the summit.
The rock, primarily limestone and its derivatives, marble, quartzite, and shale, offers varied climbing: technical slabs, sculpted walls, dihedres and pillars. The routes are often long, uncrowded, and consistent, ideal for discovering or deepening your knowledge of alpine multi-pitch climbing.
The routes are mostly between 5c and 6b, with a few harder routes up to 7a, allowing for natural progression towards more challenging climbs.
One of the massif's large rocky faces, overlooking the Lac des Vaches in the heart of the Vanoise National Park. Arriving on the summit ridge offers a direct view of the Grande Casse, the Grande Glière, and the surrounding glaciers. Unmistakable mountain atmosphere and continuous climbing.
Petite Pasquier — approx. 380 m — 5c → 6a+
Grande Pasquier — approx. 400 m — 6a → 7a
Electroshock — approx. 350 m — 6a+ → 6b
Happy Marmots — approx. 300 m — 5b → 6a
Limestone faces overlooking Pralognan, accessible but already alpine. Aesthetic climbing alternating slabs and steep walls.
La Vie en Rose (Arcelin) — ~300 m — 5c → 6a+
West Arête of L'Arcelin — ~250 m — 5b → 6a
Forbidden Zone (Big Market) — ~780 m — 6a+ → 6b+
East Pillar of the Grand Marchet — ~300 m — 5c → 6a
Indian summer 300m, SW, TD - 6a>5c
Large cliff face dominating the Chavière valley. Steep and physical climbing, with sustained grades.
Delights on Pitons 350m, NW, ED- 6c>6b
Calm down, darling, or the Castafiore will gnaw at her monkey 350m, W, ED+ 7b+>6c
Wall Again or Man with Blue Eyes 350m, W, ED+ 7b>7a
Cime des Planettes: Cosmic Bivouac 300m, W, TD- 6a>6a
Cime des Planettes: The Cosmos Ball 340m, W, D+ 5c>5c
Observatory Point: The Milky Way 270m, SW, TD- 5c>5c
Observatory Point: Under the radar 350m, SW, TD 6a+>5c+
Observatoire Point: Too late Babar 340m, SW, TD 6a+>6a
Nearby:
West Arête of the Observatory — AD+, 400m, W, AD+ 5b>5a
North Ridge Pointe de l’Échelle — AD-, 550m, N, AD- 4b>3c
On the Courchevel side, a recently developed sector, notably by Olivier Houillot and Gaël Bouquet des Chaux. Modern, well-equipped routes, ideal for transitioning from cliff climbing to long mountain routes.
Several recent routes — 180 to 300 m — 5b → 6b
Accessible and progressive climbing in an alpine setting.
Pralognan side
Pralognan side, Flight over a Chough's Nest — ~250 m — 6a → 6c
A sustained and aesthetic multi-pitch route that has become a local benchmark.
Wild ambiance and low visitor numbers. Varied climbing in an isolated setting.
Natacha — ~300 m — 5c → 6a+
Tatiana — ~320m — 6a → 6b
Iconic summit offering numerous great routes in a unique alpine atmosphere.
Bérard-Rigotti 100m, E, D 6a>5a I P1
Cries and Moors 120m, E, ED- 6c>6b II P1
The Twelve Monkeys 120m, W, TD 6b>6b II P1
The happiness of others 120m, E.D. - 6c+>6b II P1
Baptiste's Holes 120m, E, ED- 7a>6b II P1
Maxi-mini 120m, E, ED- 6c>6b A0 II P1
Miracle Beggar 120m, E, TD 6b+>6a I P1
One-day millionaires 120m, E, TD 6a+>6a I P1
Death to the Blockheads 130m, E, ED- 6c>6b II P1
Gargantua Pillar 130m, SW, TD 6a>6a II P2
Pier SW 130m, SW, TD 5c>5c II P3
Pierra Menta: A Family Resemblance 130m, W, TD+ 6b+ I P2 E3
Pierra Menta: Historical Route (Loustalot – Zwingelstein) 140m, W, AD 5a>4c I P1+ E3
In Vanoise, a long route isn't just about climbing. The approach, managing the terrain, reaching the summit, and the descent are all an integral part of the experience. These routes represent a natural transition between rock climbing and more challenging mountaineering expeditions.
The majority of routes are between 5 and 6a/6b. It is preferable to be comfortable on grade 5 rock climbing and capable of completing several pitches in a day. Participants generally climb on second, often close to their maximum level.
No. Even if some modern routes feature existing gear, climbing remains alpine. Protection can be spaced out and the use of nuts or cams is frequent depending on the routes.
No, progress is most often made as a second. The goal is to access large mountain routes in good conditions, without having to manage the commitment of leading, unless particularly desired.
From June to October, depending on snow cover and temperatures. Well-exposed faces become climbable quickly, while some high-altitude routes are ideal in mid-summer when the rock is perfectly dry.
For a mountain atmosphere and tranquillity. The routes offer varied climbing in a preserved environment, with a clear ascent logic leading to the summit.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
