Rébuffat route, Aiguille du Midi
One of the great classics of the Mont Blanc massif, mapped out by one of the pioneers of mountaineering. The Rébuffat route unfurls its elegant line on the south face of the Aiguille du Midi, at an altitude of almost 3800m. It offers accessible, aesthetic and varied climbing in a spectacular high mountain setting.
The rock, high-quality granite from the Chamonix region, can be tamed in sculpted pitches: finger cracks, open dihedrals, round, grippy humps, scrapes and straightforward slabs. The itinerary remains homogeneous in the 5c/6a range, with no extreme obligatory passages. It can be done as a day trip from the cable car, with two options:
- an alpine approach via the tapering ridge of the Aiguille du Midi for a complete tour,
- or a comfortable abseiling descent from the top station to the foot of the track.
It's a real gem if you want to get a taste of the granite of Mont-Blanc without having to tackle anything too hard. It's a great introduction to high-altitude climbing, ideal for preparing for more challenging routes such as the voie des Suisses on the Grand Capucin, the Contamine on the Aiguille du Midi and other major routes on the Envers des Aiguilles and the Lachenal.
The Rébuffat route at Aiguille du Midi is a classic granite route graded 5c/6a max, with sustained but well-protected sections. To tackle it with confidence, you need to be comfortable climbing 5c as a second, or even 6a if you want to climb lead. Good experience of long route handling is recommended, as well as some familiarity with the void and rock in the high mountains. If you've already mastered belays, abseiling and belaying on a rock face, this is the ideal route for progressing into the world of rock climbing in Chamonix.
Even if the climbing is not extreme, this is an altitude race. The atmosphere is ethereal, the altitude can make itself felt, and the weather can change rapidly. The belays are in place and the route is well travelled, but the commitment comes from the environment rather than the technical difficulty. With good preparation and professional supervision, the Rébuffat route on the Aiguille du Midi is a reasonable way to discover high mountain climbing without taking unnecessary risks.
There are two ways to reach the foot of the voie Rébuffat:
By abseiling from the top station of the cable car (quick and easy access).
Via the south ridge of the Aiguille du Midi, in crampons, for a more alpine and immersive approach, with a breathtaking view of the peaks of the Mont-Blanc massif. This option lengthens the route a little but adds character to the day. The choice will depend on your level, the conditions and the mood of the day.
Yes, absolutely. This is one of the great advantages of the Rébuffat route on the Aiguille du Midi. If you take the first skip of the cable car, you can climb the route all day without spending the night in a refuge, with a comfortable return to Chamonix in the afternoon. It is also possible to spend the night in the Cosmiques refuge, if you wish to continue the following days with other routes in the area.
Yes, the Rébuffat route at Aiguille du Midi is an excellent introduction to the granite of Chamonix. It allows you to familiarise yourself with the high mountain atmosphere, climbing on granite, cracks and long flights on demanding rock at 3800m. It's a perfect stepping stone to more technical routes such as the voie des Suisses at Grand Capucin, Contamine at l'Aiguille, or the longer routes in the Envers des Aiguilles sector.
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A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
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