Winter mountaineering in Scotland - Ben Nevis and the Highlands
5 days of adventure in the unique atmosphere of Scottish winter climbing
Five days of immersion in the heart of the Highlands, between Glencoe, Fort William and the legendary Ben Nevis, the UK's highest peak (1,345 m). Its north face is packed with gullies, waterfalls and mixed ridges, providing an exceptional playground for winter mountaineering.
We'll be alternating mountain runs with moments of conviviality: a comfortable hostel in Fort William, a night in an unguarded hut like no other at the CIC hut, discovering pubs, distilleries and local specialities. The sometimes rough Scottish weather is part of the experience: icy winds, snowstorms and sudden bursts of sunshine create a unique atmosphere that can't be found anywhere else.
I suggest a low-carbon trip: Paris-London by Eurostar, London-Glasgow by train, then a hire car to get us to the mountaineering areas, adapting to the conditions. Tested and approved in 2024, you won't regret the experience.
Among the classic routes on the north face of Ben Nevis, Ledge Route, Tower Ridge, mixed lines on Douglas Boulder, beautiful routes on North-East Buttress, Point 5 Gully! Always depending on the level of the group.
The price indicated below only includes the cost of supervision, and does not include transport, accommodation, catering or car hire for the group. Please contact me for the final total budget.
In Scotland, you have to know how to adapt to weather conditions and ice formations. That's what makes a winter mountaineering course on Ben Nevis so interesting: learning to widen your margin of tolerance, to enjoy the mountains in a different way, and to make the most of the constraints. The gullies, mixed ridges and couloirs on the north face of Ben Nevis are emblematic routes that allow you to progress in the 'trad' spirit for which British mountaineers are renowned.
I suggest a train journey, which I prefer for its low-carbon dimension and for the experience. Access is by Eurostar Paris-London, with a quick change in London, then a direct train to Glasgow. From there, we took a hire car to Fort William and the Ben Nevis and Glencoe areas.
Ideally, you'll come with all the equipment you need for independent winter mountaineering: technical ice axes, crampons, pins, quickdraws, traditional protection, helmet, harness and clothing suited to Scottish conditions. Before you leave, we'll go through the list together to make sure nothing is missing.
This course is aimed at mountaineers who already have some experience of climbing: the ability to climb in a lead position, experience of ice climbing, how to build a belay, how to use protection, how to manage a rope party and how to work in mixed terrain. Mountain experience is essential, as is good resistance to difficult conditions (wind, snow, cold).
Each outing is adapted to the conditions of the day and the level of the group. Expect long, intense days, sometimes with very early starts and late returns. Scottish weather means you need to be flexible and responsive.
With semi-autonomous or autonomous roped parties, the group is limited to a maximum of 4 people, for greater safety and fluidity, and to adapt the choice of routes to suit each individual.
We stay mainly in a comfortable youth hostel in Fort William, with one or two nights in an unguarded hut at the CIC Hut. The last evening is spent in Glasgow, enjoying the festive atmosphere before returning home.
As a UIAGM mountain guide and trip organiser, I'll make sure the trip runs smoothly, choose the best routes according to the conditions, accompany you on a variety of routes (gullies, mixed routes, ridges), ensure safety and pass on educational content to help you become more autonomous in winter mountaineering. I make sure that all the logistical details are taken care of beforehand, and find solutions on the ground if unforeseen circumstances - and there will be some - arise.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
