One of the greatest mountaineering routes in the Alps to the summit of Mont Blanc
The Peuterey Integral is considered one of the finest mountaineering routes in the Mont Blanc massif. Starting from the Val Veny in Italy, this four-day route ascends the entire wild Peuterey ridge before reaching the summit of Mont Blanc via the Grand Pilier d'Angle.
This crossing is a true high-mountain journey. For four days, the roped party progresses across terrain of incredible variety: long rocky ridges, abseils, mixed sections, snow, ice and high-altitude bivouacs. Each day reveals a new facet of the Italian side of Mont Blanc, far from the most frequented routes.
The ascent of the Peuterey Integral is a goal in itself for any experienced mountaineer. It can also be integrated into a project to climb the 82 peaks over 4,000 metres in the Alps, by enabling climbers to reach the Blanche de Peuterey and the Grand Pilier d'Angle, two iconic summits on this list.
However, this major climb is only intended for rope teams with solid high-mountain experience. The length of the route, commitment, altitude and isolation require excellent preparation as well as perfectly stable weather conditions.
Day 1 – Ascent to the Borelli hut
From Val Veny, we reach the Borelli refuge, an unmanned hut situated at the foot of the Noire de Peuterey. This first day allows us to gradually leave the valley and enter the mineral atmosphere of the south face of the Mont Blanc massif.
Day 2 – Noire de Peuterey and Dames Anglaises
We climb the Noire de Peuterey via its south ridge or east ridge, before doing a series of abseils.
The route continues with the crossing of the spectacular Dames Anglaises, a succession of some of the most aesthetically pleasing rock pinnacles in the Alps.
Rather than joining a traditional bivouac, we generally push on higher. This arrangement allows us to tackle the section leading to the Blanche de Peuterey by daylight, on complex terrain where visibility is a real asset.
Night on the ridge.
Day 3 – Blanche de Peuterey, Grand Pilier d’Angle and Mont Blanc
We reach the Blanche de Peuterey before continuing to the Col de Peuterey and then on to the Grand Pilier d'Angle.
The route then joins the Mont Blanc ridge to reach the highest point in the Alps.
Depending on the schedule and conditions, the descent is made either towards the Goûter refuge, or via the Trois Monts traverse to the Cosmiques refuge.
Day 4 – Return to the Chamonix valley
Final day dedicated to the descent towards Chamonix.
After several days of immersion in the high mountains, this arrival in the valley marks the culmination of an exceptional adventure on one of the finest ridges of the Mont Blanc massif.
This climb is intended for experienced mountaineers who have already completed several major rock and mixed routes. Excellent endurance, good self-sufficiency and solid high-mountain experience are essential.
The proposed itinerary takes place over four days, from Val Veny to Chamonix. This breakdown makes it possible to distribute the effort better and to tackle the most complex sections of the ridge in the best conditions.
Yes. This traverse allows you to reach the Blanche de Peuterey, the Grand Pilier d'Angle and the summit of Mont Blanc. It constitutes a magnificent stage in a project of the 82 peaks over 4,000 metres in the Alps.
The Peuterey Integral is generally done between the end of July and the beginning of September. The exact period depends, however, on the snow cover, the conditions on the rock and above all on weather stability. This major route is only considered during a sustained spell of good weather, when all the parameters come together to progress safely on this committing ridge in the Mont Blanc massif.
In the vast majority of cases, no. The Peuterey Integral is a major milestone in a mountaineer’s journey, and for some, the ultimate achievement. Before considering this traverse, we will generally have completed several preparatory climbs together in order to assess your level, build up our rope-team coordination, and gain a thorough understanding of how we work together.
Beyond technical skills, this climb requires a real relationship of trust between the guide and their client. For four days, we will be operating in a committing environment, where decisions must be made quickly and where everyone must be able to fully rely on each other. I do not set out on a climb like this with someone I do not yet know, and I am convinced that you would not want to embark on such an adventure with a guide you are meeting for the first time either.
This preparation is an integral part of the project and contributes greatly to the enjoyment and success of the Peuterey Integral.
Live with your guide, from first contact to the summit.
Creative and flexible
A flexible framework for devising the most appropriate itinerary or activity for each day, depending on the group and the conditions.
